If it's going to be your first bike, I wouldn't get Neither!
They are very serious track ready bikes, that have snap throttle, wicked acceleration, and super fast and unforgiving manuvering for new riders.
I would look into a good condtion used motorcycle. If you want a Sport Bike, defidentley look into something a bit more forgiving, like a Ninja 250, or even a bit larger Suzuki GSX 500. Both will do near 100MPH, and are much easier on a new rider.
My first bike was a Suzuki S40 Cruiser, after 10 Months, I sold it and got a new GSX 650F. Very nice bike. But I lost over $3000 selling the S40. So defidentley look into good used bikes, their out their I should no :(
Take a motorcycle safety foundation Basic/Beginner riding cource. They provide the bike and most will have a Ninja 250 to learn on. It's 3 days, and the info can save your life. I swear by them.
Peace out, and ride safe.|||jesus, talk about the blind leading the blind
1. don't get a new one, your only going to scratch the **** out of it when you drop it anyhow (and if your new that will happen).
2. it's your money, if you don't want to waste it on a putter like the ninja 250 or gs500 then don't, let your wrist be the control not the bike. you can drive a fast bike slow but you can't drive a slow bike fast, just be responsible.
3. I've never liked kawasaki because of their looks and the fact that they're the slowest (admittedly by a very slim margin) but they just never held any appeal to me. Furthurmore I've seen more Kawis break down than any other brand (save harley davidson) lol. In addition I rode the local track and the colorado mountains this year for about 8000 miles total. During that time I witnessed three riders go down right in front of me, all three were riding kawasakis, I'm not saying that kawis crash more, I think it just says something about the people that ride them, it seems like every time i'm on a ride and there's a kawi there I don't want to be behind him and his chicken strips are huge!
4. of course it comes down to personal preference, I'd tell you to go for the gixxer hands down, but if you like the looks of the kawi better get that one. Both have performance far beyond your ability, if your that impartial I'd probably just wait and see which one you can get a better deal on.
5. Take the class and WEAR A HELMET, don't be a statistic.|||would have to agree with other posts re: sportbike for a new rider.
you'll do better to learn on a smaller cruiser style bike, that way you can get the motorcycle "mechanics" learned.
a sportbike would be a little too much for a new rider.
maybe try a suzuki savage or intruder.|||Listen to Vulpix ... about starting small and starting off with the MSF class.
My SV650 is a debatable good first bike and it has roughly 30 less hp than your typical 600. I can out accelerate almost any car on the road and it doesn't take much at all to be well above the speed limit.|||If a ZX6 versus GSX600R they are about the same/equal. sit on both and ride both, what ever is a better for you and your wallet is the one to get.|||if youre new to bikes dont get a sports bike you will kill youre self. they are not very forgiving. once youve got some experience then go for the gsxr there wicked and fast as hell.|||which you can afford
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Has anyone got a kawasaki gpz900 motorcycle engine they want to sell?
What is wrong with the old engine?
I was thinking that it could be repaired or reconditioned.|||Not many left, many died from #3 rod going. Good engine, otherwise, and the rod problem cam be prevented. I have a few parts, do not think I have enough to build an engine though. If you like, let me know what is wrong with your engine, see if I can help.
Cheers,
Tomcotexas
tomcotexas@yahoo.com
I was thinking that it could be repaired or reconditioned.|||Not many left, many died from #3 rod going. Good engine, otherwise, and the rod problem cam be prevented. I have a few parts, do not think I have enough to build an engine though. If you like, let me know what is wrong with your engine, see if I can help.
Cheers,
Tomcotexas
tomcotexas@yahoo.com
How long can i expect a used kawasaki ninja 250R to last?
I'm about to buy my a used kawasaki ninja 250R as my first motorcycle. It has about 8k miles on it and looks like it has been properly maintained. Considering that I'm a fairly new rider and will make some mistakes here and there, how many miles can I expect this bike to last for assuming that I take care of the required maintenance?|||Well,.. FD is kinda right and Danny definitely has math and perception problems (a few 100K?? -not hardly); To that end: With 8K miles on it, and if it hasn't been ragged out, you will be able to get all the learning you will need and still pass it on to the next guy to learn on if you don't rag it out %26amp; wreck it....
You won't be able to get what you gave for it but if it runs well, doesn't smoke and have alot of scratches/dents, plastic missing, worn out tires you should be able to get around 60-80% of what you paid.
Welcome, and ride safe, stay alive.|||probably a few 100k miles before you start seeing any problems, so 5-8 years?
Has done almost 220k miles on a similar bike from new.
Stupid *****.|||the bike will out last your use for it. When you get sick of it, it will still be running strong...
You won't be able to get what you gave for it but if it runs well, doesn't smoke and have alot of scratches/dents, plastic missing, worn out tires you should be able to get around 60-80% of what you paid.
Welcome, and ride safe, stay alive.|||probably a few 100k miles before you start seeing any problems, so 5-8 years?
Has done almost 220k miles on a similar bike from new.
Stupid *****.|||the bike will out last your use for it. When you get sick of it, it will still be running strong...
What was the name of Kawasaki's first production motorcycle?
The bike gurus should know this. Help me out guys.|||That's Tricky Bruce,
The First actual Kaw was a '62 B8 125cc
Same bike was made in '61,,,called a B7.
But it wasnt a actual Kawasaki yet,,it was a subsidiary company Kaw owned./bought after making engines for them for several years
The First actual Kaw was a '62 B8 125cc
Same bike was made in '61,,,called a B7.
But it wasnt a actual Kawasaki yet,,it was a subsidiary company Kaw owned./bought after making engines for them for several years
What would you pay for this motorcycle? Kawasaki?
I was wondering what would you pay for a 2010 Kawasaki Concourse 14 non ABS model?
How much would you pay? Please honest answers no bs
I know it's American culture to tell the price etc
The dealer is selling for $11331 OTD
do you think it's worth this price or can it be lower?|||I wouldn't buy the bike.... can get a nice 749 Ducati super bike for less than that..
but I like sports bikes..
%26amp; that's a touring bike...
but as with anything you buy... you decide what its worth... offer them that amount.. the answer is either yes or no...
if its a dealer he may drop the price if he cant sell it for a few months...
so if it doesn't sell you can always go %26amp; offer him the price you want %26amp; tell him to ring you when he hasn't sold it %26amp; is willing to drop to your price...|||NADA.com has it between $9,500 (low retail) and $12,500 (high retail) depending on condition. The low end on that is for a bike that needs a few things.
How much would you pay? Please honest answers no bs
I know it's American culture to tell the price etc
The dealer is selling for $11331 OTD
do you think it's worth this price or can it be lower?|||I wouldn't buy the bike.... can get a nice 749 Ducati super bike for less than that..
but I like sports bikes..
%26amp; that's a touring bike...
but as with anything you buy... you decide what its worth... offer them that amount.. the answer is either yes or no...
if its a dealer he may drop the price if he cant sell it for a few months...
so if it doesn't sell you can always go %26amp; offer him the price you want %26amp; tell him to ring you when he hasn't sold it %26amp; is willing to drop to your price...|||NADA.com has it between $9,500 (low retail) and $12,500 (high retail) depending on condition. The low end on that is for a bike that needs a few things.
Who created a worldwide craze for motorcycles? From which country it started?
The credit for creating a worldwide craze for motorcycle goes to Japan 鈥?especially to the Japanese engineer named Soichiro Honda (see photo). Just as scooter was innovated as an affordable vehicle for the common man in postwar Europe, Honda concentrated on the motorcycle. He inspired Kawasaki, Yamaha and Suzuki to follow him in this field.More chek here seekforfan.com|||Check your history|||So Honda started the biking industry after WWII...I think not. You fail to give any credit to Harley Davidson, Indian and Henderson in the USA, Norton, Triumph, BSA, Vincent, Excelsior and others in the UK, BMW and loads of other European companies that were building lots of bikes before WWII and even WWI. I could be wrong, but I think one of the first two wheeled vehicles that were designed with an engine as an integral component (as opposed to adding an engine to a bicycle) was a German bike in the late 1800's.|||Originally, America inspired motorcycling with a large number of manufacturers, not the least being Indian, Excelsior Henderson and Harley Davidson. in the 50's British brands started taking over, namely BSA, Triumph, etc. In the 60's Honda started taking over.
Now, things have evened out, but the European brands are starting to be the most innovative - BMW, Ducati, Triumph.|||Soundra, what have you been reading? Gas-powered lawnmowers at the turn of the 20th century? I don't think so.
Motorcycles saw huge developments between the two World Wars. They were a much cheaper alternative to the automobile, at a time when Soichiro was still just manufacturing piston rings.|||WRONG - the British were the first with mass produced motorcycles because of the prohibitive taxes on four wheeled vehicles. Before the Japanese came along the British sold more bikes in North America than all other makes combined.
Why are you answering your own question ?|||Diamler built the first "motor driven" cycle ... with training wheels, back in 1890's to test internal combustion engine designs ... sort of a rolling dynometer.
Budd|||"Honda put the world on wheels."
Hendersons, H-D, Indians and the rest of the quirky super-heavies were ridden by the fringe element.|||It is undecided who actually created the first motorcycle. Harley started by putting a lawnmower engine in the frame of a bicycle. But, he was not the first to do this. Other people at this time where doing the same thing. Most people where just looking for some way to make their bicycle comute easier. Harley when one step further by conecting two cylinders to one crankpin. Thus starting the life of the v-twin. Most harleys you buy today still have two pistons conected to one crankpin. This offset fireing is what causes that lopsided idle of Harleys. This is a poor design but harley owners refuse to let the company change to newer better designs. The latest attempt that harley has made to break free from poor design is the V-ROD where there are two crankpins. One for each cylinder.
Now, things have evened out, but the European brands are starting to be the most innovative - BMW, Ducati, Triumph.|||Soundra, what have you been reading? Gas-powered lawnmowers at the turn of the 20th century? I don't think so.
Motorcycles saw huge developments between the two World Wars. They were a much cheaper alternative to the automobile, at a time when Soichiro was still just manufacturing piston rings.|||WRONG - the British were the first with mass produced motorcycles because of the prohibitive taxes on four wheeled vehicles. Before the Japanese came along the British sold more bikes in North America than all other makes combined.
Why are you answering your own question ?|||Diamler built the first "motor driven" cycle ... with training wheels, back in 1890's to test internal combustion engine designs ... sort of a rolling dynometer.
Budd|||"Honda put the world on wheels."
Hendersons, H-D, Indians and the rest of the quirky super-heavies were ridden by the fringe element.|||It is undecided who actually created the first motorcycle. Harley started by putting a lawnmower engine in the frame of a bicycle. But, he was not the first to do this. Other people at this time where doing the same thing. Most people where just looking for some way to make their bicycle comute easier. Harley when one step further by conecting two cylinders to one crankpin. Thus starting the life of the v-twin. Most harleys you buy today still have two pistons conected to one crankpin. This offset fireing is what causes that lopsided idle of Harleys. This is a poor design but harley owners refuse to let the company change to newer better designs. The latest attempt that harley has made to break free from poor design is the V-ROD where there are two crankpins. One for each cylinder.
What Starter motorcycle Should i Get -Kawasaki Ninja 250 or Ninja eliminator 125?
well i just need opinions on what i should get! the eliminator 125 or ninja 250r.. this is for my first motorcycle.i dont need new suggestions on other bikes please..thanks|||Between the 2, I would go with the 250cc Ninja. ***2008 brings a remodel to the bike.*** A 125cc engine would be best for the first couple hours, but after that the bike would feel slugish.
I just bought a 650cc Suzuki Cruiser as my first bike 2 1/2 weeks ago. Though it was wicked fast at first, but now hauling my big butt around it's no faster then my Escape SUV. So getting the larger engine would be in you favor.
I still think a Sport Style bike is a bad choice for a bran new rider with 0 Experience. Your body weight is high up and the seating posistion is difficult to get used to compared to a cruiser. ***Riding a bicycle to going to a cruiser is second nature.*** But I can defidentley see where the appeal in the sport style is. ***I love the GSX-R - but they're to much for a starter, both cost wise and power wise.*** - But the lack of power in the Eliminator 125 will have you wishing you had gotten the faster bike real quick.
Anyways, you will have a blast.
Get a good helmet, and WATCH OUT FOR THE IDIOTS ON THE ROAD!
Peace.|||Actually, I'd suggest the Ninja 500... it's not SO much harder to ride, will run a bit smoother, and make freeway speed much easier than the little 250, which screams when you have it up that high. Both are great starter bikes, but when you've been riding for a little while you wont want to have to buy a bigger bike right away, so a bigger starter is a good idea.
Good luck, and be careful!
(For a new rider, or even if you're experienced offroad like I was, I STRONGLY suggest doing one of the weekend safety courses that are held by many riding schools. They are generally available for both beginning and advanced riders, and it basically counts as a rider's test if you need a license. You get a lot of useful information, which just might save your life.)|||id say 250, motorcycles are quick to get the hang off and ull want to start going a little faster a few weeks into riding=p. i started on a 600 and still use it after 2 years, its nice and small and the pipe n airbox gave it sum umpf.|||this is two different riding styles.
the ninja is a sport bike and the elimnator is a cruser.
I started off on a sport bike, and now ride a cruser.
if you are looking a comfort, go with the elimnator.
size will play a part too, see if you can sit on both of them. I am 6'2" and I don't think I could ride either one.
good luck, take a training course. it is well,time spent|||Of the two bikes get the Ninja 250.
You will quickly find the 125 to be underpowered and unsuitable for highway use. The Ninja 250 for its size is actually a pretty good beginner bike and commuter.
I also advise you to do some kind of riding course, you will learn more than you could imagine. Most importantly get a full set of safety gear.
Helmet
Gloves
Jacket
Pants either leather or jeans with Kevlar reinforcing
Boots
In that order of importance, don't think you won't come off. It's not if you will have a accident but when. And always wear gloves. Hand injuries are common and always bad.
I just bought a 650cc Suzuki Cruiser as my first bike 2 1/2 weeks ago. Though it was wicked fast at first, but now hauling my big butt around it's no faster then my Escape SUV. So getting the larger engine would be in you favor.
I still think a Sport Style bike is a bad choice for a bran new rider with 0 Experience. Your body weight is high up and the seating posistion is difficult to get used to compared to a cruiser. ***Riding a bicycle to going to a cruiser is second nature.*** But I can defidentley see where the appeal in the sport style is. ***I love the GSX-R - but they're to much for a starter, both cost wise and power wise.*** - But the lack of power in the Eliminator 125 will have you wishing you had gotten the faster bike real quick.
Anyways, you will have a blast.
Get a good helmet, and WATCH OUT FOR THE IDIOTS ON THE ROAD!
Peace.|||Actually, I'd suggest the Ninja 500... it's not SO much harder to ride, will run a bit smoother, and make freeway speed much easier than the little 250, which screams when you have it up that high. Both are great starter bikes, but when you've been riding for a little while you wont want to have to buy a bigger bike right away, so a bigger starter is a good idea.
Good luck, and be careful!
(For a new rider, or even if you're experienced offroad like I was, I STRONGLY suggest doing one of the weekend safety courses that are held by many riding schools. They are generally available for both beginning and advanced riders, and it basically counts as a rider's test if you need a license. You get a lot of useful information, which just might save your life.)|||id say 250, motorcycles are quick to get the hang off and ull want to start going a little faster a few weeks into riding=p. i started on a 600 and still use it after 2 years, its nice and small and the pipe n airbox gave it sum umpf.|||this is two different riding styles.
the ninja is a sport bike and the elimnator is a cruser.
I started off on a sport bike, and now ride a cruser.
if you are looking a comfort, go with the elimnator.
size will play a part too, see if you can sit on both of them. I am 6'2" and I don't think I could ride either one.
good luck, take a training course. it is well,time spent|||Of the two bikes get the Ninja 250.
You will quickly find the 125 to be underpowered and unsuitable for highway use. The Ninja 250 for its size is actually a pretty good beginner bike and commuter.
I also advise you to do some kind of riding course, you will learn more than you could imagine. Most importantly get a full set of safety gear.
Helmet
Gloves
Jacket
Pants either leather or jeans with Kevlar reinforcing
Boots
In that order of importance, don't think you won't come off. It's not if you will have a accident but when. And always wear gloves. Hand injuries are common and always bad.
What is considered high mileage for a motorcycle (crotchrocket 636cc zx6r kawasaki) ?
basically i can get a brand new zx6r with 0 miles out of the crate for around 9,000$ however i can also get the same bike with 23,000 miles on it, (mostly highway) for 5,000$. is it worth the extra 4,000$ for the bike with 0 miles? ideas/thoughts please. thanks!|||It really depends on the condition of the bike and if it has been taken care of. My bike has over 12,000 on it and people woud say that it is "high mileage" but I would trust my bike 10 times more than I would trust some of these used bikes that I see that has 5,000 on it. You can have 23,000 miles on a bike that has been riden easily and would not be nearly as bad as a bike that has 4,000 miles on it from running it down a drag strip. Have a look at it to see how well its been taken care of and then decide if its worth the money, dont just completely rule it out because of the mileage.|||This question always gets people are argumentative lol as some folks use full synthetic oil which does indeed make a bike last longer than old fashioned dinosaur oil but all that being said, on average the maximum miles on a motorcycle go like this...Note the higher revving engines or smaller cc get the lowest
250cc about 25000 miles
600cc about 60000 miles
1000cc about 100,000 miles
The larger the cc of the motor the longer they tend to last.|||Go for the 0 mile bike. 23000 in that short amount of time is bad. 23000 mile over 10 years would make it a great bike. 23000 miles in one year mean he rode it almost 2000 miles a month assuming he rode all 12 months. It can be done. When I got my first bike I rode every waking moment and put 20K in my first year. I still have the bike and it's stron as ever. Regular maintenance helps. I'd go with new anyday. Sure the value will depreciate fast but at least you won't inherite anybody's mess.|||The actual mileage is much less important than how it was treated. Bikes have been torn up with fewer miles than that.
I'd be looking at wear items such as the clutch, chain, sprockets, if valves have been adjusted and if it appears to have been laid down. Not just a tip over in the garage, but a slide down the highway.|||23,000 miles is A LOT of mileage for that kind of bike. Do your self a favor and fork over the extra money now so you don't get stuck with something that will break down in a few months.|||it's a very managable amount of miles, just spend the money to have it checked out first, if it's in good condition you've got a good deal, if not, go for the crate.|||4|||23000 is NOT i repeat NOT a lot of miles I know guys with well over 60000miles on gsxr600 and ninjas as well.
If you buy a new one you have to break it in which suxxxx major...if you f that up you are screwed, mightas well get the used one its already broken in and i bet it screams, itll go at least double that if you take good care.
Good Luck
250cc about 25000 miles
600cc about 60000 miles
1000cc about 100,000 miles
The larger the cc of the motor the longer they tend to last.|||Go for the 0 mile bike. 23000 in that short amount of time is bad. 23000 mile over 10 years would make it a great bike. 23000 miles in one year mean he rode it almost 2000 miles a month assuming he rode all 12 months. It can be done. When I got my first bike I rode every waking moment and put 20K in my first year. I still have the bike and it's stron as ever. Regular maintenance helps. I'd go with new anyday. Sure the value will depreciate fast but at least you won't inherite anybody's mess.|||The actual mileage is much less important than how it was treated. Bikes have been torn up with fewer miles than that.
I'd be looking at wear items such as the clutch, chain, sprockets, if valves have been adjusted and if it appears to have been laid down. Not just a tip over in the garage, but a slide down the highway.|||23,000 miles is A LOT of mileage for that kind of bike. Do your self a favor and fork over the extra money now so you don't get stuck with something that will break down in a few months.|||it's a very managable amount of miles, just spend the money to have it checked out first, if it's in good condition you've got a good deal, if not, go for the crate.|||4|||23000 is NOT i repeat NOT a lot of miles I know guys with well over 60000miles on gsxr600 and ninjas as well.
If you buy a new one you have to break it in which suxxxx major...if you f that up you are screwed, mightas well get the used one its already broken in and i bet it screams, itll go at least double that if you take good care.
Good Luck
Maintenance Issued with Older Motorcycles?
Is the money you save buying a 10 year old motorcycles with around 10,000 to 15,000 miles on it worth it? A similar 2 year old bike with less than 5,000 miles costs at least twice as much in my area. Will the cost of maintenance on a 10 year old motorcycle (Yamaha, Kawasaki, Honda, or Suzuki) outweigh the reduced purchase price? I'm just looking for an average - obviously bikes in that age range vary widely in condition and maintenance history.|||buying an older bike is a learning experience , you have more money to modify the bike and you learn how to repair and coustomise|||My bike is about 14 years old. I was lucky, the previous owner took very good care of it. So far, nothing unusual except for routine maintenance, which I do myself.
One of the first things I got for my bike was a shop manual. Cost me about $25 on EBAY. The best investment I made so far on my ride. A shop manual will pay for itself the first time you use it. The shop manual will also let you know if you are getting in over your head. Even if you do not do the maintenance yourself, if you read the manual, you will understand exactly what the motorcycle shop is doing.
As far as the routine maintenance goes, I did a little research on the Internet for my parts. I was able to cross reference my oil filter to a Wix filter. These are just about the best oil filters on the market. If you have ever seen the store display with a cutaway of a Wix filter and a conventional filter, you will understand why. You can get these from any major auto parts store that sells Wix filters. They may need to special order one. They even cost less than the cheap made in China filter you will get at your motorcycle dealer.
I was also able to cross reference my spark plugs to some Iridium plugs that I special ordered from my favorite automotive parts store. Again, the Iridium plugs from the automotive parts store were less than the conventional plugs from the motorcycle dealer.
I also found a very good website for motorcycle parts. They can get you parts for some surprisingly old bikes. See the link below. However, keep in mind that motorcycle parts can be expensive. This applies to both old and new bikes.|||The main consideration with a 10 year or older bike is are You capable and willing to do your own Mechanical work and maintenance. Most dealerships do not support older machines so You have to be able to do it Yourself or Luck up on a good independant shop. My advice to anyone considering such a purchase is if You don't enjoy wrenching, look newer.|||Go with Older. Newer bike are computerized electronic - virtually unserviceable by the average rider. The Honda 750 SOHC %26amp; DOHC are rider friendly economical and can be maintained by an average mechanic.|||I think MJ laid this out pretty well. It all depends on how well you choose. You can do well or you can go home rubbing your bxxt. It is a matter of good business.|||older bikes just like older cars are relitively easy to work on.all the new stuff requres computer diagnostics and nothing gets fixed it gets replaced.the thing is knowing what bikes were better. the old s.o.h.c. 750 Honda is safe bike to get,as is the Kawasaki KZ 750, yamaha 650 vertical twin,susuki water buffalo,are all bikes that come to mind. of cours condition when you come across these machines as well as how they were ridden and taken care of matters.back in 91 I picked up a 750 Virago and I put over 100,000 miles on it no sweat and it was running great when I sold it.and say what you will about H.D. there are a LOT of knuckles,panheads, and even shovelheads STILL ON THE ROAD....stay away from the iron sportster unless you like wrenching all the time.
One of the first things I got for my bike was a shop manual. Cost me about $25 on EBAY. The best investment I made so far on my ride. A shop manual will pay for itself the first time you use it. The shop manual will also let you know if you are getting in over your head. Even if you do not do the maintenance yourself, if you read the manual, you will understand exactly what the motorcycle shop is doing.
As far as the routine maintenance goes, I did a little research on the Internet for my parts. I was able to cross reference my oil filter to a Wix filter. These are just about the best oil filters on the market. If you have ever seen the store display with a cutaway of a Wix filter and a conventional filter, you will understand why. You can get these from any major auto parts store that sells Wix filters. They may need to special order one. They even cost less than the cheap made in China filter you will get at your motorcycle dealer.
I was also able to cross reference my spark plugs to some Iridium plugs that I special ordered from my favorite automotive parts store. Again, the Iridium plugs from the automotive parts store were less than the conventional plugs from the motorcycle dealer.
I also found a very good website for motorcycle parts. They can get you parts for some surprisingly old bikes. See the link below. However, keep in mind that motorcycle parts can be expensive. This applies to both old and new bikes.|||The main consideration with a 10 year or older bike is are You capable and willing to do your own Mechanical work and maintenance. Most dealerships do not support older machines so You have to be able to do it Yourself or Luck up on a good independant shop. My advice to anyone considering such a purchase is if You don't enjoy wrenching, look newer.|||Go with Older. Newer bike are computerized electronic - virtually unserviceable by the average rider. The Honda 750 SOHC %26amp; DOHC are rider friendly economical and can be maintained by an average mechanic.|||I think MJ laid this out pretty well. It all depends on how well you choose. You can do well or you can go home rubbing your bxxt. It is a matter of good business.|||older bikes just like older cars are relitively easy to work on.all the new stuff requres computer diagnostics and nothing gets fixed it gets replaced.the thing is knowing what bikes were better. the old s.o.h.c. 750 Honda is safe bike to get,as is the Kawasaki KZ 750, yamaha 650 vertical twin,susuki water buffalo,are all bikes that come to mind. of cours condition when you come across these machines as well as how they were ridden and taken care of matters.back in 91 I picked up a 750 Virago and I put over 100,000 miles on it no sweat and it was running great when I sold it.and say what you will about H.D. there are a LOT of knuckles,panheads, and even shovelheads STILL ON THE ROAD....stay away from the iron sportster unless you like wrenching all the time.
Lowering kawasaki motorcycle?
I have a kawasaki zzr 600 and want to lower about 2 inches. I know you can buy the lowering links for the rear but i still need to drop the front shocks right?|||You can get by without lowering the front. It will be raked out a bit, but not enough to worry about for street riding.
Lowering the rear reduces anti-squat, but again this is not an issue for street riding.
It is possible to shorten the front springs; I have done this a few times. The problem here is that it effectively makes the spring stiffer.
Imagine that you have removed the spring. Place 10 kg on the spring for example. It will compress maybe a couple inches. Now cut the spring in half and put the same weight on it. It will compress half as much.
You can get lighter fork springs from the aftermarket. This is a bigger job than replacing the dogbone links on the rear suspension. You might not want to bother.|||you maybe able to lower the front by raising the forks in the trees, not sure with this model.
Lowering the rear reduces anti-squat, but again this is not an issue for street riding.
It is possible to shorten the front springs; I have done this a few times. The problem here is that it effectively makes the spring stiffer.
Imagine that you have removed the spring. Place 10 kg on the spring for example. It will compress maybe a couple inches. Now cut the spring in half and put the same weight on it. It will compress half as much.
You can get lighter fork springs from the aftermarket. This is a bigger job than replacing the dogbone links on the rear suspension. You might not want to bother.|||you maybe able to lower the front by raising the forks in the trees, not sure with this model.
How much does it cost to have a kawasaki 500cc motorcycle engine rebuilt by a certified mechanic?
Figure $70 per/h (at least) and put it their hands.
What's wrong with the engine?
If you don't know what's wrong, I'm SURE they do and it'll be at least 30 hours!
Post the symptoms, let's see where to go from there.|||Depends on what kind of specs you want it rebuilt to. For road use you should be able to get a rebuilt 500 cc engine for around $1500. If you're looking to use it for some kind of racing then you're looking at $3000 on up.|||As Candid said, you want to find out what the problem is before you go spending big bucks on a rebuild. A good mechanic will be able to make certain tests to determine what kind of shape the engine itself is in. You sure don't want to spend $1500 on a rebuild only to find you have a bad ignition coil or igniter.
If your engine really is shot, consider looking for a used on at a salvage yard. Not a "junk" yard, but a reputable salvage yard that will guarantee you get a decent engine. For a used engine you're probably looking at 1/3-1/2 the cost of a rebuild. Replacement Japanese engine parts are VERY expensive (I've priced them.)
What's wrong with the engine?
If you don't know what's wrong, I'm SURE they do and it'll be at least 30 hours!
Post the symptoms, let's see where to go from there.|||Depends on what kind of specs you want it rebuilt to. For road use you should be able to get a rebuilt 500 cc engine for around $1500. If you're looking to use it for some kind of racing then you're looking at $3000 on up.|||As Candid said, you want to find out what the problem is before you go spending big bucks on a rebuild. A good mechanic will be able to make certain tests to determine what kind of shape the engine itself is in. You sure don't want to spend $1500 on a rebuild only to find you have a bad ignition coil or igniter.
If your engine really is shot, consider looking for a used on at a salvage yard. Not a "junk" yard, but a reputable salvage yard that will guarantee you get a decent engine. For a used engine you're probably looking at 1/3-1/2 the cost of a rebuild. Replacement Japanese engine parts are VERY expensive (I've priced them.)
I buy a motorcycle preferably a Kawasaki 650R or 500R is this smart since i have no experience?
im 6ft and weigh 180 pounds and i know how to ride a bicycle so im guessin a motorcycle is one with alot of speed...?|||Take a course and learn to ride before you buy. The 500R would be a good starter (much better than the 650).
The only thing bicycles and motorcycles have in common is two wheels.
Good luck!|||hell no a motorcycle is way different than a bicycle start out with a 250 until u get more experence|||thats a great choice most people start out with a bike to big and get scared then stop riding start with the 500 get good at it and as you feel comfortable go bigger if you like i am a seasoned rider and i love a 550 wont trade it for anything so go ahead get the bike and enjoy it
The only thing bicycles and motorcycles have in common is two wheels.
Good luck!|||hell no a motorcycle is way different than a bicycle start out with a 250 until u get more experence|||thats a great choice most people start out with a bike to big and get scared then stop riding start with the 500 get good at it and as you feel comfortable go bigger if you like i am a seasoned rider and i love a 550 wont trade it for anything so go ahead get the bike and enjoy it
Why did Kawasaki discontinue the Drifter?
When Indian Motorcycles went out of business (again) you'd think the demand for Indian clones would go up, but then Kawasaki goes and discontinues their drifter line of bikes right when they would have started selling more. What's up with that? Now people who want an Indian (or a clone) are out of luck unless we want to pay a fortune for a used one.|||Usually the answer to a question like this is that the manufacturer wasn't making a profit. I'm not very biased, I like most all bikes, but not a cruiser kind of guy. From the outside looking in, it seems that MOST if not ALL attempts by overseas companies to break in to the cruiser market aren't very well received. Americans generally want that HOG and laugh at foriegn attempts. So it probably didn't sell well enough to justify producing it any longer, even though it was rated as a good machine.
What size tires are on a 1987 Kawasaki kz305 motorcycle?
Well, the tire sizes are generally printed right on the tire. Try looking at the tires and writing down what you find. They are usually also printed on a small decal on the swing arm or under one of the side covers. You could also try bike bandit.com
Need to buy a Kawasaki ATV or motorcycle engine?
Working on a prototype and would like to put in a kawasaki ATV or motorcycle engine. Anyone know where i can BUY just the engine. I do not want to rebuild/repair. i want to purchase a complete engine. no chassis.
Thank you!!|||Auction sites
Gumtree
E-bay or in the back of moribund magazines good luck x
Thank you!!|||Auction sites
Gumtree
E-bay or in the back of moribund magazines good luck x
Whats a better motorcycle : kawasaki or suzuki?
I want to buy a dual-purpose motorcycle, mostly to get me back and forth from work and school....For about 5700 i can get 398 ccs from suzuki and from kawaski for 4700 i can get 250 ccs, i dont care about racing, going so fast, or anything....and like i said, offroad use will be minimal....
now its all down to which is the better brand, more reliable ... etc...
here are the links if you wanna check it out
http://www.suzukicycles.com/Products/DRZ鈥?/a>
(the drz400s)
http://kawasaki.com/Products/Detail.aspx鈥?/a>
the klx250s|||I ride a Suzuki myself, a GS500F. It's been pretty reliable. Both of the bikes you're looking at are great for new riders to learn on; the Suzuki will be faster, but I expect the Kawasaki to get better mileage. The Kawasaki might also struggle to keep up on the freeway, while the Suzuki will have an easier time. I'd sit on both and see which one feels more comfortable, as that's one thing only you can decide for yourself.|||Overall Suzuki is a better choice. It's just a better built bike. Kawasaki is making good on their re-designed KLR650 though.|||go with...SUZUKI!!!!!!!!!!
Trust me when I say that Suzuki knows about how to make motorcycles reliable and affordable.|||They are both great brands. I have owned both a '96 Suzuki Katana and a '93 Kawasaki Ninja EX500. Both were great bikes for me mechanically and performance wise. The thing you need to consider is comfort especially if you are going to be riding it a lot. I'm a bigger guy so the Katana was a better fit for me. Consider your size, amount of time you will be riding it, and features. Test ride both and not just in the parking lot. Take them both out into traffic and see how they handle in the city. Is it comfortable sitting at a stop light? Is the clutch heavy, controls easy to manipulate, do the mirrors vibrate so much you feel like puking when looking in them? Do you like the sound after 30 minutes or so? Sounds funny but annoying exhaust noise or buzz can make 30 minutes feel like eternity in the 9th dimension of hell. Lastly is looks, a great looking bike that you hate riding is just that. Hope this helps. Good luck!|||yuup get a yamaha|||Neither, get a Honda or a Yamaha.|||The best one is the one that YOU like the best. Move slowly away from your computer...then run like hell to your nearest dealerships to test drive and look the machines over. Enjoy the ride!|||http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/produc鈥?/a>
I ride a 85 Kawasaki KXT 250 Tecate|||Without doubt the DRZ400 is the best bike for your intended purpose.|||For that much you could find a decent used Harley if you looked hard enough...|||go with honda or the one of the others with a larger engine.|||all of the asian bikes are reliable so it really dosen't matter which you get. Go out and drive some bikes and see what you like. Now, I'm a Harley guy myself and I agree with the previous answerers, with the kind of money you have, go out and get yourself a good used 1200 sportster.|||i think, u should buy kawasaki, although suzuki is better but kawasaki is best!|||KJH is right Harley Division yeah.
now its all down to which is the better brand, more reliable ... etc...
here are the links if you wanna check it out
http://www.suzukicycles.com/Products/DRZ鈥?/a>
(the drz400s)
http://kawasaki.com/Products/Detail.aspx鈥?/a>
the klx250s|||I ride a Suzuki myself, a GS500F. It's been pretty reliable. Both of the bikes you're looking at are great for new riders to learn on; the Suzuki will be faster, but I expect the Kawasaki to get better mileage. The Kawasaki might also struggle to keep up on the freeway, while the Suzuki will have an easier time. I'd sit on both and see which one feels more comfortable, as that's one thing only you can decide for yourself.|||Overall Suzuki is a better choice. It's just a better built bike. Kawasaki is making good on their re-designed KLR650 though.|||go with...SUZUKI!!!!!!!!!!
Trust me when I say that Suzuki knows about how to make motorcycles reliable and affordable.|||They are both great brands. I have owned both a '96 Suzuki Katana and a '93 Kawasaki Ninja EX500. Both were great bikes for me mechanically and performance wise. The thing you need to consider is comfort especially if you are going to be riding it a lot. I'm a bigger guy so the Katana was a better fit for me. Consider your size, amount of time you will be riding it, and features. Test ride both and not just in the parking lot. Take them both out into traffic and see how they handle in the city. Is it comfortable sitting at a stop light? Is the clutch heavy, controls easy to manipulate, do the mirrors vibrate so much you feel like puking when looking in them? Do you like the sound after 30 minutes or so? Sounds funny but annoying exhaust noise or buzz can make 30 minutes feel like eternity in the 9th dimension of hell. Lastly is looks, a great looking bike that you hate riding is just that. Hope this helps. Good luck!|||yuup get a yamaha|||Neither, get a Honda or a Yamaha.|||The best one is the one that YOU like the best. Move slowly away from your computer...then run like hell to your nearest dealerships to test drive and look the machines over. Enjoy the ride!|||http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/produc鈥?/a>
I ride a 85 Kawasaki KXT 250 Tecate|||Without doubt the DRZ400 is the best bike for your intended purpose.|||For that much you could find a decent used Harley if you looked hard enough...|||go with honda or the one of the others with a larger engine.|||all of the asian bikes are reliable so it really dosen't matter which you get. Go out and drive some bikes and see what you like. Now, I'm a Harley guy myself and I agree with the previous answerers, with the kind of money you have, go out and get yourself a good used 1200 sportster.|||i think, u should buy kawasaki, although suzuki is better but kawasaki is best!|||KJH is right Harley Division yeah.
Has anyone had a POG problem with their Kawasaki 1500 motorcycle and what has Kawasaki done about it?
Ah...the good ol' POG in the Kaw. Nomads....most pre 2000 bikes had the problem. There is a lot of discussion and remedies on vroc.com for insight. If memory serves there is a member on the site called "Judge" who can get you a replacement gear.|||It's an ongoing problem.
Kawasaki knows about the problem and has updated it to a metal gear.
They will replace it free of charge whether your bike is still under warranty or not.
A couple of problems -
The gear is on back order - so the dealerships claim.
Dealerships claim that the entire engine has to be removed and dis-assembled - not true just remove the clutch.
So they won't perform the work in the summer busy months.
I don't think I would ride the bike if it was mine until the gear was replaced.
If it fails, Kawasaki will give your engine a complete rebuild - would you want your engine torn down to a box of bolts, then rebuilt?|||A what? Message received, but not understood. Please explain.
I though POGs were the paper things that kids took to collecting while my son was in school.
Kawasaki knows about the problem and has updated it to a metal gear.
They will replace it free of charge whether your bike is still under warranty or not.
A couple of problems -
The gear is on back order - so the dealerships claim.
Dealerships claim that the entire engine has to be removed and dis-assembled - not true just remove the clutch.
So they won't perform the work in the summer busy months.
I don't think I would ride the bike if it was mine until the gear was replaced.
If it fails, Kawasaki will give your engine a complete rebuild - would you want your engine torn down to a box of bolts, then rebuilt?|||A what? Message received, but not understood. Please explain.
I though POGs were the paper things that kids took to collecting while my son was in school.
My 1989 Kawasaki 454LTD motorcycle will not turn over.?
I am having some issues with my motorcycle. After sitting all winter, I charged the battery, added new gas, etc. I got the bike to kick over. I went back a day later to take it for a ride and the bike will not turn over. The battery is fully charged and the starter is functioning. What could the problem be?|||Check your battery again. Sitting around all winter without being on a charger is hard on a battery. You may have a dead cell preventing the battery from holding a charge for very long.|||Cylinder may be fuel locked dissallowing the engine to revolve.
Poor electrical connection at the battery.
Rust on the cylinder walls.
Poor contact at push button for electric start.
Poor electrical connection at the battery.
Rust on the cylinder walls.
Poor contact at push button for electric start.
What are the best sport motorcycles?
I want to buy a sport motorcycle/crotch rocket.. like a Kawasaki Ninja.. i just do not know much about them.
i just want it to ride around town, and possibly take a trip on it.
What are the best motorcycles (Kawasaki, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Hyosung?) ?
and about how much would you pay?
new or used?
any info would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance. :)|||If you don't know much about them then the only two you should be considering are the Hyosung GT250 and the Kawasaki Ninja 250. Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha don't make sportbikes for the American market which are suitable for you, although a second-hand Suzuki GS500 might suit. Read the links below to find out why. They are long, but could save your life.|||As far as Sport Bikes go, there are two categories. Super Sports, and Sports.
Super Sport bikes are extremely fast machines that are designed for the track, and for the adrenaline junky type riders that want to kill themselves on the road. They are extremely dangerous and should not be ridden by amateurs or beginners. YOU WILL DIE ON THESE THINGS IF YOU ARE INEXPERIENCED. This category consists of the cream of the crop of motorcycles. The Best, Biggest, sexiest,and Fastest IMO is the New Kawasaki ZX-14($14,000). The Suzuki Hayabusa($13,199) is also very good looking and performs top notch, it is also very popular, you've probably seen it before. Next is Honda's CBR1000R($14,000) its very sporty and handles and performs as such. Then come the superior Italian bikes, Ducati 1198 ($22,000) which is an amazing Italian crotch rocket on steroids, then there's the Aprilia RSV4 Factory ($25,000). If you buy any of these two bikes I recommend you update your will cause you are endangering your life, unless your a professional.
Sport bikes have sporty looks but some can perform like conventional motorcycles. This category consists of bikes such as the popular Kawasaki Ninja 650r($7,100). Which has nice sporty looks but rides like a normal motorcycle. The Suzuki SV650 ($8,000) is another exceptional sporty looking bike. Lastly is the Honda CBR600 ($11,200). These bikes are very sporty looking, are able to ride like sport bikes, but can also be ridden every day.
As far as reliability go, for long trips you can't go wrong with any of these bikes, but be warned, they will get dirty. Honda makes very reliable bikes. Suzuki and Kawasaki make very exceptional Bikes and back them up with exceptional service.
NOTE: NONE OF THESE MOTORCYCLES ARE INTENDED FOR BEGINNERS OR AMATEURS. YOU SHOULD BE EXPERIENCED WITH THESE MACHINES, AND KNOW YOUR LIMITS. YOU CAN AND WILL GET HURT, IF YOU DON'T DIE FIRST IF YOUR INEXPERIENCED. RIDE SAFE!|||The Kawasaki Ninja 250R is definitely the way forward. The Hyosung GT250R is a similar bike, but MCN (a very respected bike magazine in the UK) doesn't recommend it because the build quality is very poor. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkqDzeCVk鈥?/a> for a head to head review.
Some think a 250cc bike is a bit small but it's ideal for learning the basics and gaining confidence without killing yourself. A Ninja looks just like a big bike anyway so the girls can't tell the difference :)
If/when you outgrow the Ninja you might want to step up to a CBR600RR as it's one of the easier to ride 600cc sports bikes - see this link: http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/Newrid鈥?/a>
Get plenty of experience on a Ninja first though as these are still very quick bikes!
i just want it to ride around town, and possibly take a trip on it.
What are the best motorcycles (Kawasaki, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Hyosung?) ?
and about how much would you pay?
new or used?
any info would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance. :)|||If you don't know much about them then the only two you should be considering are the Hyosung GT250 and the Kawasaki Ninja 250. Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha don't make sportbikes for the American market which are suitable for you, although a second-hand Suzuki GS500 might suit. Read the links below to find out why. They are long, but could save your life.|||As far as Sport Bikes go, there are two categories. Super Sports, and Sports.
Super Sport bikes are extremely fast machines that are designed for the track, and for the adrenaline junky type riders that want to kill themselves on the road. They are extremely dangerous and should not be ridden by amateurs or beginners. YOU WILL DIE ON THESE THINGS IF YOU ARE INEXPERIENCED. This category consists of the cream of the crop of motorcycles. The Best, Biggest, sexiest,and Fastest IMO is the New Kawasaki ZX-14($14,000). The Suzuki Hayabusa($13,199) is also very good looking and performs top notch, it is also very popular, you've probably seen it before. Next is Honda's CBR1000R($14,000) its very sporty and handles and performs as such. Then come the superior Italian bikes, Ducati 1198 ($22,000) which is an amazing Italian crotch rocket on steroids, then there's the Aprilia RSV4 Factory ($25,000). If you buy any of these two bikes I recommend you update your will cause you are endangering your life, unless your a professional.
Sport bikes have sporty looks but some can perform like conventional motorcycles. This category consists of bikes such as the popular Kawasaki Ninja 650r($7,100). Which has nice sporty looks but rides like a normal motorcycle. The Suzuki SV650 ($8,000) is another exceptional sporty looking bike. Lastly is the Honda CBR600 ($11,200). These bikes are very sporty looking, are able to ride like sport bikes, but can also be ridden every day.
As far as reliability go, for long trips you can't go wrong with any of these bikes, but be warned, they will get dirty. Honda makes very reliable bikes. Suzuki and Kawasaki make very exceptional Bikes and back them up with exceptional service.
NOTE: NONE OF THESE MOTORCYCLES ARE INTENDED FOR BEGINNERS OR AMATEURS. YOU SHOULD BE EXPERIENCED WITH THESE MACHINES, AND KNOW YOUR LIMITS. YOU CAN AND WILL GET HURT, IF YOU DON'T DIE FIRST IF YOUR INEXPERIENCED. RIDE SAFE!|||The Kawasaki Ninja 250R is definitely the way forward. The Hyosung GT250R is a similar bike, but MCN (a very respected bike magazine in the UK) doesn't recommend it because the build quality is very poor. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkqDzeCVk鈥?/a> for a head to head review.
Some think a 250cc bike is a bit small but it's ideal for learning the basics and gaining confidence without killing yourself. A Ninja looks just like a big bike anyway so the girls can't tell the difference :)
If/when you outgrow the Ninja you might want to step up to a CBR600RR as it's one of the easier to ride 600cc sports bikes - see this link: http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/Newrid鈥?/a>
Get plenty of experience on a Ninja first though as these are still very quick bikes!
What are the best sport motorcycles?
I want to buy a sport motorcycle/crotch rocket.. like a Kawasaki Ninja.. i just do not know much about them.
i just want it to ride around town, and possibly take a trip on it.
What are the best motorcycles (Kawasaki, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Hyosung?) ?
and about how much would you pay?
new or used?
any info would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance. :)|||kawasaki
new
2010 650 you would pay about 7,000
Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-valve per cylinder, parallel twin,649 cc,6-Speed,O-Ring Chain
happy to help :)
i just want it to ride around town, and possibly take a trip on it.
What are the best motorcycles (Kawasaki, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Hyosung?) ?
and about how much would you pay?
new or used?
any info would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance. :)|||kawasaki
new
2010 650 you would pay about 7,000
Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-valve per cylinder, parallel twin,649 cc,6-Speed,O-Ring Chain
happy to help :)
A good payment for a Kawasaki sports motorcycle?
I'm 18 years old and I'm looking into buying my first bike. A 2011 Kawasaki Sports Ninja 250R starting at $3,999.00|||Instead of financing a brand new bike, why not spend a few minutes in your local classifieds and find a 2008 ninja 250 used for less money and pay cash? No payments, your choice of insurance, and its yours to do what you wish with it.|||how about a gently used with all the mods you were going to get 08 250 for 2500? don't buy or sell to stealerships kid|||3999 cash|||Read about it here:
bit.ly/q7Pt2G
Check out the second and third red links on the right side of the above website for complete guidance regarding your query.
bit.ly/q7Pt2G
Check out the second and third red links on the right side of the above website for complete guidance regarding your query.
Are sportbikes or cruiser style motorcycles safer?
I know motorcycles in general are not necessarily "safe", but I'm planning on getting my first bike and want to know the pro's and cons of each? Would a bike like a Kawasaki Ninja 250r be safe enough or a louder cruiser type bike like a Honda Rebel? Also, do skinny rear tires like on the 2008 Ninja 250r make a huge difference in terms of traction and such?|||technically a sportbike should theoretically be safer because they brake and swerve much better than a cruiser does. Not to mention that they have faster acceleration so they can get out of tight spots faster if they need to. So, why then are they statistically in more crashes? Because it doesn't matter what kind of bike you ride. It all depends on how you ride and how well you look out for people that aren't looking out for you. The only way to be safe on a bike is to wear full riding gear. If you want a safe vehicle then your best bet is to take a plane wherever you go since they statistically crash less than bikes and even cars. All bikes are about the same as far as safety goes, so don't let some one tell you that a loud cruiser is safer than a sportbike. Most people aren't listening for bikes; hell they don't even look for bikes.
To be honest i never really thought about whether a narrower tire is less safe, but know that i do, i highly, highly doubt it. My gf's dad rides a KLR650 with a skinny, knobby tire in the back and he's never had a problem with it. My bike has a typical width rear tire for a sportbike and it's never prevented me from locking the rear brake on wet pavement when i stomp on it. All tires will leave about the same size footprint on the pavement. Don't worry about the size of the tire. Bike companies aren't going to design a bike and put the wrong size tire on it. a 130 width tire is fine for a bike it's size.
The safetest way you can ride is after you take an MSF course and wear full riding gear.
BTW. i wouldn't buy a rebel. They are SLOW and can't keep up on highways. Go for something along the lines of a 600 or 750 cruiser. Max 650cc Non-supersport sportbike (suzuki Katana, Kawakai ninja 650r, sv 650)..|||As others have noted, it's the safety of the rider, not the motorcycle that's the biggest factor. Take the course. Even if you don't always agree with the instructor, you'll have a good foundation for riding.
You'll likely find the Rebel 250 as one of the bikes in the course. It's a reliable bike
|||First, motorcycles in general are very safe. It's usually the rider who is not.
Second a "cruiser type" is NOT louder than a "sport type".
They both have to meet the same noise levels. It's only after they leave the dealer that the noise changes. And "sport types" change their mufflers as well.
Tires can and do make a difference. Many times, wider is not better. Narrow tires are a little quicker in the turns. The weight they carry is more concentrated, instead of spread out. This is one reason that traction is at least the same, if not better.
OK, arguments and such aside:
You have listed two cycles that are pretty much opposite in style, seating, and handling. This leads me to believe that (no offense) you don't really know what you want yet. I would suggest taking a learner's course such as the one offered by the MSF. They provide a bike in the 250cc range for the class. You will get the opportunity to talk to people who actually ride. At the end, you will have a much better idea of what really suits YOU. And that's what it's all about. YOU. nobody else is going to be stuck with your decision.|||it doesn't matter what style bike you ride ,it's how safe a rider you are and as far as tire width that doesn't matter as you still only have a contact batch on the road of the size of a playing card|||I have owned ninjas all my life and in my opinion sport bikes are more nimble in the corners than cruisers.
The Ninja 250 I also owned at one time and they are excellent bikes, very reliable and not boring at all.
The skinny tires are not as good as big fat tires when it comes to fast freeway driving however you can change the tires and most ninja 250 riders do.
See, the stock tires tend to have lines on them which "go the same grain as the freeway lines" so it seems to make the bike float a bit more from side to side in those grooves on the freeway. I never noticed those grooves in a car until I rode a bike on the freeway and then you see them plain as day.
So what some bike riders do, if you ride the freeway is they get tires where the tread design is going across the bike. IN other words imagine you are sitting on the bike now. The tread goes from your left to your right across that way it doesn't get into the grooves on the freeway as the tread is side ways and the freeway lines are straight.
Another thing with the Ninja 250 that I have noticed is that when I first got one the freeway riding was kind of "floating" that is I moved all over the freeway and it was because the tire pressure was too low.
After looking on the side of the tires and seeing the MAX psi I pumped it up to that and wow what a difference it made!
So keep the tires nice and firm but no higher than the max psi on the side of the tires, it will be printed there.
The honda rebel is not as strong as the Ninja 250 and if you had 2 guys with the same skill racing each other the Honda rebel would be in the dust. Its not a bad bike the rebel, just not as good as the Ninja 250 or Ninja 500.
As far as the NOISE of the bike being safe, that is a myth and has been proven scientifically as for example, on the freeway as cars drive forward as you come up behind them they can't hear it at all until you are on the side of them but by that time its too late you are still in the danger zone.
However when it comes to safety there are things that help alot that I would say are Requirements to know..if you are getting a bike.
For freeways you never want to get a bike lower than 600cc unless you plan riding freeways only a short ways like 5-10 miles then any 250cc bike will do even the rebel. But another factor is weight of the bike.
For freeways most bikers will say you want a bike with meat on its bones like the Kawasaki zx10 or a suzuki katana both bikes weigh in over 400lbs.
HOwever if you look at the weight of the ninja 250 it is only 300+ lbs and in windy conditions like freeways going 70mph its hard to ride that for long periods as the wind blows the bike around.
So remember these tips..
Freeways most of the way? Get a heavier bike
Streets most of the time? Get a light bike
If you ride a bike on the streets it is a totally different bike once you get it on the freeway going 70mph+
The wind is excruciatitingly loud and buffetting on a Ninja 250 or any bike but on the ninja 250 at high freeway speeds its tireing.
Watch the video below and I had a helmet cam on my helmet and you can hear the noise of the wind how loud it is. Now of course a quiet helmet cuts this noise down a lot but the video shows how the wind really picks up on freeways and how a light bike suffers at those speeds.
Imagine going 70mph in a car and then sticking your head out the window..yeah its kinda like that.
The awesome thing about the Ninja 250 is I rarely took freeways since the thing is so dang good on gas! You can ride about 200 miles or more and still have some in the reserve tank, the thing is a awesome bike.|||The traction given by a Ninja 250 tyre is more than enough to put the power down is only has 30bhp after all.
A bike is only as safe as the rider. I would prefer a sports bike as if you go into a corner abit fast you can lean it more but on a cruiser parts will hit the floor.|||Any safety advantage is gained by the bike's being visable, not by its being loud.|||The RIDER is what determines the safety level, not the bike!
Honda Rebels are far from loud though- that was my first bike. Good reliable choice as long as you aren't too heavy. They are not known (the 250's anyway) for horsepower. I had mine pegged all the time keeping up with other folks and I weigh 135.|||I believe loud pipes are safer, my exhaust can set off car alarms, not only can they hear me coming, they can feel me coming too|||Safety is in the hands of the rider not the bike.|||My first bike was a 250r i loved it. and with all the new updates like breaks and so on it would be safer.|||I see so many outstanding answers up here 3 pages long but I'll just sum up what they are saying.
Safety on a motorcycle, just like in a car, is in the hands of the rider, if not moreso.
You can be a bad driver and live to die of natural causes even if you get into an accident.
You can't be a bad rider and live to die of natural causes because you'll end up killing yourself or more likely a dumb cager (car driver) will end up killing you.
Also take the MSF Safety Course, it has saved my life, it really has.|||Short answer is that these are both beginner bikes, take your pick. But consider a dual sport also, very good for beginners and more fun and versatile than the smaller street bikes. You can learn alot by riding in the dirt.
Chris H....'The only way to be safe is to wear full riding gear???' This is the kind of MSF horse-hockey that makes them lose credibility with me. In racetrack conditions with 50 ' of unobstructed dirt buffer zone riders wreck and slide around without a bruise...or sometimes land wrong and are very seriously injured. On the street there is no buffer zone, just tons of steel traveling at 65mph and solid concrete walls. I rider might be slightly safer all decked out in leather and plastic but don't get your hopes up or you are going to be seriously disappointed.
You are never 'safe' riding a motorcycle on the street and you should keep that attitude if you want to live. The best way to increase your safety is to be very aware of the road and anticipate the stupidity of other drivers, how you are clothed doesn't prevent and when it comes to motorcycle wrecks it's best to just not be in one.|||If you're choosing between the Ninja 250 and the Rebel 250, pick the Ninja 250.
You can do a wheelie or a stoppie on a sportbike. Cruisers aren't balanced for that, ...
but -- consider seat height. On a typical sportbike, you're more visible because you're sitting higher and your motorcycle isn't painted the same color as the asphalt.
Me, I ride a cruiser ratbike, because it was given to me. If I had my choice, I'd be riding something like the Kawasaki Versys or Suzuki V-Strom 650.|||you can not use the word safe and motorcycle in the same sentence.
weather it is a 50cc pocket bike
or a gsxr1000 you can be maimed
or killed very easy riding a bike.|||if sport bikes i driven resposibly, and you know what your doing and know your limits, then yes i would say that they are safer. they are more nimble, you can avoid colisions better. but if you dont know what your doing, or riding beyond your ability, you can find yourself in a bad situation in a hurry. but i think a 250r would be a good starter bike, but i wouldnt put too much money into it, because you can outgrow that bike fast.... and loud does work,, i ride a sportbike with loud exhaust, and if im commng up to an intersection and i think someone might pull out in front of me, ill rev my engine, or if im passing someone and i think they might not see me. i rev my engine and get their attention, it works gets peoples attention most of the time.
To be honest i never really thought about whether a narrower tire is less safe, but know that i do, i highly, highly doubt it. My gf's dad rides a KLR650 with a skinny, knobby tire in the back and he's never had a problem with it. My bike has a typical width rear tire for a sportbike and it's never prevented me from locking the rear brake on wet pavement when i stomp on it. All tires will leave about the same size footprint on the pavement. Don't worry about the size of the tire. Bike companies aren't going to design a bike and put the wrong size tire on it. a 130 width tire is fine for a bike it's size.
The safetest way you can ride is after you take an MSF course and wear full riding gear.
BTW. i wouldn't buy a rebel. They are SLOW and can't keep up on highways. Go for something along the lines of a 600 or 750 cruiser. Max 650cc Non-supersport sportbike (suzuki Katana, Kawakai ninja 650r, sv 650)..|||As others have noted, it's the safety of the rider, not the motorcycle that's the biggest factor. Take the course. Even if you don't always agree with the instructor, you'll have a good foundation for riding.
You'll likely find the Rebel 250 as one of the bikes in the course. It's a reliable bike
Report Abuse
|||First, motorcycles in general are very safe. It's usually the rider who is not.
Second a "cruiser type" is NOT louder than a "sport type".
They both have to meet the same noise levels. It's only after they leave the dealer that the noise changes. And "sport types" change their mufflers as well.
Tires can and do make a difference. Many times, wider is not better. Narrow tires are a little quicker in the turns. The weight they carry is more concentrated, instead of spread out. This is one reason that traction is at least the same, if not better.
OK, arguments and such aside:
You have listed two cycles that are pretty much opposite in style, seating, and handling. This leads me to believe that (no offense) you don't really know what you want yet. I would suggest taking a learner's course such as the one offered by the MSF. They provide a bike in the 250cc range for the class. You will get the opportunity to talk to people who actually ride. At the end, you will have a much better idea of what really suits YOU. And that's what it's all about. YOU. nobody else is going to be stuck with your decision.|||it doesn't matter what style bike you ride ,it's how safe a rider you are and as far as tire width that doesn't matter as you still only have a contact batch on the road of the size of a playing card|||I have owned ninjas all my life and in my opinion sport bikes are more nimble in the corners than cruisers.
The Ninja 250 I also owned at one time and they are excellent bikes, very reliable and not boring at all.
The skinny tires are not as good as big fat tires when it comes to fast freeway driving however you can change the tires and most ninja 250 riders do.
See, the stock tires tend to have lines on them which "go the same grain as the freeway lines" so it seems to make the bike float a bit more from side to side in those grooves on the freeway. I never noticed those grooves in a car until I rode a bike on the freeway and then you see them plain as day.
So what some bike riders do, if you ride the freeway is they get tires where the tread design is going across the bike. IN other words imagine you are sitting on the bike now. The tread goes from your left to your right across that way it doesn't get into the grooves on the freeway as the tread is side ways and the freeway lines are straight.
Another thing with the Ninja 250 that I have noticed is that when I first got one the freeway riding was kind of "floating" that is I moved all over the freeway and it was because the tire pressure was too low.
After looking on the side of the tires and seeing the MAX psi I pumped it up to that and wow what a difference it made!
So keep the tires nice and firm but no higher than the max psi on the side of the tires, it will be printed there.
The honda rebel is not as strong as the Ninja 250 and if you had 2 guys with the same skill racing each other the Honda rebel would be in the dust. Its not a bad bike the rebel, just not as good as the Ninja 250 or Ninja 500.
As far as the NOISE of the bike being safe, that is a myth and has been proven scientifically as for example, on the freeway as cars drive forward as you come up behind them they can't hear it at all until you are on the side of them but by that time its too late you are still in the danger zone.
However when it comes to safety there are things that help alot that I would say are Requirements to know..if you are getting a bike.
For freeways you never want to get a bike lower than 600cc unless you plan riding freeways only a short ways like 5-10 miles then any 250cc bike will do even the rebel. But another factor is weight of the bike.
For freeways most bikers will say you want a bike with meat on its bones like the Kawasaki zx10 or a suzuki katana both bikes weigh in over 400lbs.
HOwever if you look at the weight of the ninja 250 it is only 300+ lbs and in windy conditions like freeways going 70mph its hard to ride that for long periods as the wind blows the bike around.
So remember these tips..
Freeways most of the way? Get a heavier bike
Streets most of the time? Get a light bike
If you ride a bike on the streets it is a totally different bike once you get it on the freeway going 70mph+
The wind is excruciatitingly loud and buffetting on a Ninja 250 or any bike but on the ninja 250 at high freeway speeds its tireing.
Watch the video below and I had a helmet cam on my helmet and you can hear the noise of the wind how loud it is. Now of course a quiet helmet cuts this noise down a lot but the video shows how the wind really picks up on freeways and how a light bike suffers at those speeds.
Imagine going 70mph in a car and then sticking your head out the window..yeah its kinda like that.
The awesome thing about the Ninja 250 is I rarely took freeways since the thing is so dang good on gas! You can ride about 200 miles or more and still have some in the reserve tank, the thing is a awesome bike.|||The traction given by a Ninja 250 tyre is more than enough to put the power down is only has 30bhp after all.
A bike is only as safe as the rider. I would prefer a sports bike as if you go into a corner abit fast you can lean it more but on a cruiser parts will hit the floor.|||Any safety advantage is gained by the bike's being visable, not by its being loud.|||The RIDER is what determines the safety level, not the bike!
Honda Rebels are far from loud though- that was my first bike. Good reliable choice as long as you aren't too heavy. They are not known (the 250's anyway) for horsepower. I had mine pegged all the time keeping up with other folks and I weigh 135.|||I believe loud pipes are safer, my exhaust can set off car alarms, not only can they hear me coming, they can feel me coming too|||Safety is in the hands of the rider not the bike.|||My first bike was a 250r i loved it. and with all the new updates like breaks and so on it would be safer.|||I see so many outstanding answers up here 3 pages long but I'll just sum up what they are saying.
Safety on a motorcycle, just like in a car, is in the hands of the rider, if not moreso.
You can be a bad driver and live to die of natural causes even if you get into an accident.
You can't be a bad rider and live to die of natural causes because you'll end up killing yourself or more likely a dumb cager (car driver) will end up killing you.
Also take the MSF Safety Course, it has saved my life, it really has.|||Short answer is that these are both beginner bikes, take your pick. But consider a dual sport also, very good for beginners and more fun and versatile than the smaller street bikes. You can learn alot by riding in the dirt.
Chris H....'The only way to be safe is to wear full riding gear???' This is the kind of MSF horse-hockey that makes them lose credibility with me. In racetrack conditions with 50 ' of unobstructed dirt buffer zone riders wreck and slide around without a bruise...or sometimes land wrong and are very seriously injured. On the street there is no buffer zone, just tons of steel traveling at 65mph and solid concrete walls. I rider might be slightly safer all decked out in leather and plastic but don't get your hopes up or you are going to be seriously disappointed.
You are never 'safe' riding a motorcycle on the street and you should keep that attitude if you want to live. The best way to increase your safety is to be very aware of the road and anticipate the stupidity of other drivers, how you are clothed doesn't prevent and when it comes to motorcycle wrecks it's best to just not be in one.|||If you're choosing between the Ninja 250 and the Rebel 250, pick the Ninja 250.
You can do a wheelie or a stoppie on a sportbike. Cruisers aren't balanced for that, ...
but -- consider seat height. On a typical sportbike, you're more visible because you're sitting higher and your motorcycle isn't painted the same color as the asphalt.
Me, I ride a cruiser ratbike, because it was given to me. If I had my choice, I'd be riding something like the Kawasaki Versys or Suzuki V-Strom 650.|||you can not use the word safe and motorcycle in the same sentence.
weather it is a 50cc pocket bike
or a gsxr1000 you can be maimed
or killed very easy riding a bike.|||if sport bikes i driven resposibly, and you know what your doing and know your limits, then yes i would say that they are safer. they are more nimble, you can avoid colisions better. but if you dont know what your doing, or riding beyond your ability, you can find yourself in a bad situation in a hurry. but i think a 250r would be a good starter bike, but i wouldnt put too much money into it, because you can outgrow that bike fast.... and loud does work,, i ride a sportbike with loud exhaust, and if im commng up to an intersection and i think someone might pull out in front of me, ill rev my engine, or if im passing someone and i think they might not see me. i rev my engine and get their attention, it works gets peoples attention most of the time.
I'm 6" 3' what type of kawasaki motorcycle should I get?
I'm a beginner, but im bigger then most people that ride crotch rockets|||You are in luck! Kawasaki makes one of the great all around motorcycles of all time, the KLR650--and it's too tall for most people! It should fit you perfectly, goes fine off road and is safe and powerful on-road. I was riding my 650 on the Tail of the Dragon (NC-TN) when a wheelie riding KLR650 rider passed me, so, they are certainly quick and fun to ride in the twisties.|||Go to a dealer and sit on it.
At 6"3" you are too big for what many here casll beginner bikes . Use this dealers as a selector, then
TAKE a safe riding test,
buy a good used bike, not too powerful not too pretty
ride this for a year to get used to riding
Go back to the Dealer and buy your dream or a at leasta platform to build yours on.|||A big one probably. Do the dealer trip round them all and try all of the models, sit on them, see which suits you best. No point in buying one that's the wrong size, daft as it sounds, you need to be able to get your feet down comfortably when you stop, so take your bike boots with you as well, as the soles are thicker than your shoe soles.
Andy Pandy|||Although the KLR650 would be a good fit the Kawasaki Versys is about the same height and looks better IMO. I wouldn't mind having one of these at all.
http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/moto鈥?/a>|||a friend of mine is taller and he rides a 600 ninja.so go to bike shop and ride a few and find out what you feel comfie on|||The Kawasaki 750 H2 Mach IV!
Dare to be different!|||KLR650....Crotch rocket? You stuck in the 80's or what?|||I agree with the KLR answers. Possibly a Versys?
At 6"3" you are too big for what many here casll beginner bikes . Use this dealers as a selector, then
TAKE a safe riding test,
buy a good used bike, not too powerful not too pretty
ride this for a year to get used to riding
Go back to the Dealer and buy your dream or a at leasta platform to build yours on.|||A big one probably. Do the dealer trip round them all and try all of the models, sit on them, see which suits you best. No point in buying one that's the wrong size, daft as it sounds, you need to be able to get your feet down comfortably when you stop, so take your bike boots with you as well, as the soles are thicker than your shoe soles.
Andy Pandy|||Although the KLR650 would be a good fit the Kawasaki Versys is about the same height and looks better IMO. I wouldn't mind having one of these at all.
http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/moto鈥?/a>|||a friend of mine is taller and he rides a 600 ninja.so go to bike shop and ride a few and find out what you feel comfie on|||The Kawasaki 750 H2 Mach IV!
Dare to be different!|||KLR650....Crotch rocket? You stuck in the 80's or what?|||I agree with the KLR answers. Possibly a Versys?
Which is a more fun motorcycle the 2005 Kawasaki ZZR 600 or the 2005 Honda Shadow Sabre? Which would you prefe?
I am selling my 2006 Ninja 650r in order to get a new bike. I like the ZZR 600 and the Honda Sabre but I'm not sure which I will have more fun on. Please weigh in and give me your suggestions or experience.|||wait??? why are you selling the Ninja 650 for? that's a much better bike than either the ZZR600, or the helpless-underpowered Honda Shadow, that's too heavy, underpowered, and has terrible tire traction on tight curves!
keep the Ninja 650, its a better bike
keep the Ninja 650, its a better bike
Russian red army use 30,000,000 kawasaki motorcycle to invade jerusalem, israel?
COME, LORD JESUS,
================
HOW IS RUSSIAN RED ARMY GOING TO CARRY WEAPONS, OIL, AND OTHER LOGISTIC TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL?
WELL, RUSSIAN NEED 30,000,000 TOYOTA CARS, 30,000,000 PICKUP TRUCKS, 30,000,000 KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLES AND 30,000,000 BICYCLES.
WELL THESE IS A ROUGHT ESTIMATE FOR RUSSIAN RED ARMY TO CARRY 30,000,000 SOLDIERS TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL.
SOME PEOPLE THINK ONLY 30,000,000 RUSSIAN SOLDIERS GOING TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL BUT THERE MIGHT BE 120,000,000 RUSSIAN COMING FOR REASON ONLY KNOWN TO GOD.
ALL RUSSIAN PEOPLE KNOWS THAT GOD IS GOING TO DESTROY RUSSIA AND SO MILLIONS WANT TO ESCAPE FROM MOSCOW AND OTHER CITIES OF RUSSIA.
THEY MIGHT GO TO EUROPE, CENTRAL ASIA, CHINA AND INDIA?
OF THE 30,000,000 RUSSIAN SOLDIERS ABOUT 10,000,000 WILL USE EASTERN EUROPE, ANOTHER 10,000,000 WILL USE CENTRAL ASIA AND ANOTHER 10,000,000 WILL USE CHINA OLD SILK ROAD TO REACH THE MIDDLE EAST.
IF THEY PUT ALL 30,000,000 ON CENTRAL ASIA ROAD THEN THEY ARE DEAD MEAT OR SITTING DUCK FOR 1,000 AMERICAN B2 BOMBERS.
NOW WHERE ARE THE 30,000,000 RUSSIAN RED ARMY THEY GOING TO ASSEMBLE IN THE MIDDLE EAST?
FROM EASTERN EUROPE THEY WILL MOVE TO TURKEY, FROM CENTRAL ASIA THEY WILL MOVE TO KURDISTAN AND FROM OLD SILK ROAD THEY WILL MOVE TO IRAN AND INTO TURKEY.
IF THE RUSSIAN WANT TO GO TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL IN STYLE THEN THEY HAVE TO BUY MODERN TRANSPORTS FROM JAPAN INORDER TO CUT DOWN ON TIME FROM TWO MONTH TO ONE MONTH.
30,000,000 TOYOTA CAR
US$ 10,000 COST PER CAR (YARIS US$12,605)
======================================鈥?
US$ 300,000,000,000
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 300 BILLION DOLLARS?
30,000,000 PICKUP TRUCK
US$ 15,000,000 COST PER TRUCK (US$16,365)
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 450,000,000,000,000
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 450 BILLION DOLLARS
30,000,000 KAWASAKI 250F
US$ 6,000 (COST PER BIKE AFTER BARGAIN FROM US$6499
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 180,000,000,000
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 180 BILLION DOLLARS
GRANDTOTAL FOR TOYOTA CAR, PICKUP TRUCK AND KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLE
WILL BE |:
US$ 300,000,000,000
US$ 450,000,000,000
US$ 180,000,000,000
=================
US$ 930,000,000,000
==================
ROUGHT ESTIMATE IS US$ 1,000,000,000,000 OR US$ 1 TRILLION DOLLARS?
WHRE IS THE MONEY COMING FROM FOR THE INVASION OF JERUSALEM, ISRAEL?
WHEN THE RUSSIAN COMMUNIST PARTY GRAP POWER ALL PROPERTIES IN RUSSIA WILL BE NATIONALISED INCLUDING OIL WEALTH WORTH TRILLION OF DOLLARS
WHY EUROPEAN UNION IS BEING USE FOR RUSSIA RED ARMY INVASION OF JERUSALEM, ISRAEL?
LOOK LIKE TURKEY IS STILL THE BEST PLACE TO ASSEMBLE THE 30,000,000 RUSSIAN RED ARMY BEFORE THE INVASION OF JERUSALEM, ISRAEL.
TURKEY HAS THE BEST NAVAL PORT, AIRPORT AND MILITARY BASE IN NATO?
Sheba and Dedan, the merchants of Tarshish and all her young lions shall ask you: "Is it for plunder that you have come? Is it for pillage that you have summoned your horde, to carry off silver and gold, to take away cattle and goods, to seize much plunder?"
ANYWAY, THE TOYOTA CAR IS FOR THE 300,000 KGB AGENTS, THE PICKUP TRUCK IS FOR THE 22,500,000 COMMUNIST PARTY MEMBERS, AND KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLE IS FOR 7,200,000 SOLDIERS?
LAST TIME JAPANESE ARMY INVADE MALAYA WITH 30,000 SOLDIERS ON BICYCLE BUT NOW IT IS KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLE?
THE PICKUP TRUCK CAN ALSO CARRY 120,000,000 BARREL OF OIL FOR ALL THREE VEHICLES AND THIS IS BECAUSE FROM MOSCOW TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL IS ABOUT 1,659 MILES.
1
1 Thus the word of the LORD came to me:
2
2 Son of man, turn toward Gog (the land of Magog), the chief prince of Meshech and Tubal, and prophesy against him:
3
Thus says the Lord GOD: See! I am coming at you, Gog, chief prince of Meshech and Tubal.
4
I will lead you forth with all your army, horses and riders all handsomely outfitted, a great horde with bucklers and shields, all of them carrying swords:
5
Persia, Cush, and Put with them (all with shields and helmets),
The descendants of Japheth: Gomer,
Magog, = RUSSIA
Madai, = IRAN
Javan, = AMERICA
Tubal, = POLAND
Meshech = HUNGARY
Tiras. = ITALY
6
Gomer with all its troops, Beth-togarmah from the recesses of the north with all its troops, many peoples with you.
THIS MUST BE FRANCE, GERMANY, SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES.
FINALLY, THIS IS A ROUGHT PICTURE HOW RUSSIAN RED ARMY WILL INVADE JERUSALEM, ISRAEL IN WORLD RECORD TIME OF ONE MONTH.
GOD BLESS ISRAEL.
MR. ROBIN DONALD.
KUALA LUMPUR,
MALAYSIA.
DATE: 15TH, AUGUST, 2010.
Bicycle
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle
TOCOMA
http://www.toyota.com/tacoma/trims-prices.html
YARIS
http://www.toyota.com/
KAWASAKI 250F
http://www.kawasaki.com/home/home.aspx
Ezekiel
Chapter 38
http|||Thanks for your work! The words of God our Creator cannot and will not fail to come to pass...james the hollow earth man|||Step back, take a deep breath and then take your silly ranting to somewhere other than the United States Yahoo Answers military forums, which went somewhere that-a-way
%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;----------------%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;|||SHOUTING DOESN'T MAKE ANYTHING MORE CONVINCING...... OR LOGICAL.|||WTF!!??
================
HOW IS RUSSIAN RED ARMY GOING TO CARRY WEAPONS, OIL, AND OTHER LOGISTIC TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL?
WELL, RUSSIAN NEED 30,000,000 TOYOTA CARS, 30,000,000 PICKUP TRUCKS, 30,000,000 KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLES AND 30,000,000 BICYCLES.
WELL THESE IS A ROUGHT ESTIMATE FOR RUSSIAN RED ARMY TO CARRY 30,000,000 SOLDIERS TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL.
SOME PEOPLE THINK ONLY 30,000,000 RUSSIAN SOLDIERS GOING TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL BUT THERE MIGHT BE 120,000,000 RUSSIAN COMING FOR REASON ONLY KNOWN TO GOD.
ALL RUSSIAN PEOPLE KNOWS THAT GOD IS GOING TO DESTROY RUSSIA AND SO MILLIONS WANT TO ESCAPE FROM MOSCOW AND OTHER CITIES OF RUSSIA.
THEY MIGHT GO TO EUROPE, CENTRAL ASIA, CHINA AND INDIA?
OF THE 30,000,000 RUSSIAN SOLDIERS ABOUT 10,000,000 WILL USE EASTERN EUROPE, ANOTHER 10,000,000 WILL USE CENTRAL ASIA AND ANOTHER 10,000,000 WILL USE CHINA OLD SILK ROAD TO REACH THE MIDDLE EAST.
IF THEY PUT ALL 30,000,000 ON CENTRAL ASIA ROAD THEN THEY ARE DEAD MEAT OR SITTING DUCK FOR 1,000 AMERICAN B2 BOMBERS.
NOW WHERE ARE THE 30,000,000 RUSSIAN RED ARMY THEY GOING TO ASSEMBLE IN THE MIDDLE EAST?
FROM EASTERN EUROPE THEY WILL MOVE TO TURKEY, FROM CENTRAL ASIA THEY WILL MOVE TO KURDISTAN AND FROM OLD SILK ROAD THEY WILL MOVE TO IRAN AND INTO TURKEY.
IF THE RUSSIAN WANT TO GO TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL IN STYLE THEN THEY HAVE TO BUY MODERN TRANSPORTS FROM JAPAN INORDER TO CUT DOWN ON TIME FROM TWO MONTH TO ONE MONTH.
30,000,000 TOYOTA CAR
US$ 10,000 COST PER CAR (YARIS US$12,605)
======================================鈥?
US$ 300,000,000,000
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 300 BILLION DOLLARS?
30,000,000 PICKUP TRUCK
US$ 15,000,000 COST PER TRUCK (US$16,365)
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 450,000,000,000,000
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 450 BILLION DOLLARS
30,000,000 KAWASAKI 250F
US$ 6,000 (COST PER BIKE AFTER BARGAIN FROM US$6499
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 180,000,000,000
======================================鈥?br>
US$ 180 BILLION DOLLARS
GRANDTOTAL FOR TOYOTA CAR, PICKUP TRUCK AND KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLE
WILL BE |:
US$ 300,000,000,000
US$ 450,000,000,000
US$ 180,000,000,000
=================
US$ 930,000,000,000
==================
ROUGHT ESTIMATE IS US$ 1,000,000,000,000 OR US$ 1 TRILLION DOLLARS?
WHRE IS THE MONEY COMING FROM FOR THE INVASION OF JERUSALEM, ISRAEL?
WHEN THE RUSSIAN COMMUNIST PARTY GRAP POWER ALL PROPERTIES IN RUSSIA WILL BE NATIONALISED INCLUDING OIL WEALTH WORTH TRILLION OF DOLLARS
WHY EUROPEAN UNION IS BEING USE FOR RUSSIA RED ARMY INVASION OF JERUSALEM, ISRAEL?
LOOK LIKE TURKEY IS STILL THE BEST PLACE TO ASSEMBLE THE 30,000,000 RUSSIAN RED ARMY BEFORE THE INVASION OF JERUSALEM, ISRAEL.
TURKEY HAS THE BEST NAVAL PORT, AIRPORT AND MILITARY BASE IN NATO?
Sheba and Dedan, the merchants of Tarshish and all her young lions shall ask you: "Is it for plunder that you have come? Is it for pillage that you have summoned your horde, to carry off silver and gold, to take away cattle and goods, to seize much plunder?"
ANYWAY, THE TOYOTA CAR IS FOR THE 300,000 KGB AGENTS, THE PICKUP TRUCK IS FOR THE 22,500,000 COMMUNIST PARTY MEMBERS, AND KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLE IS FOR 7,200,000 SOLDIERS?
LAST TIME JAPANESE ARMY INVADE MALAYA WITH 30,000 SOLDIERS ON BICYCLE BUT NOW IT IS KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLE?
THE PICKUP TRUCK CAN ALSO CARRY 120,000,000 BARREL OF OIL FOR ALL THREE VEHICLES AND THIS IS BECAUSE FROM MOSCOW TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL IS ABOUT 1,659 MILES.
1
1 Thus the word of the LORD came to me:
2
2 Son of man, turn toward Gog (the land of Magog), the chief prince of Meshech and Tubal, and prophesy against him:
3
Thus says the Lord GOD: See! I am coming at you, Gog, chief prince of Meshech and Tubal.
4
I will lead you forth with all your army, horses and riders all handsomely outfitted, a great horde with bucklers and shields, all of them carrying swords:
5
Persia, Cush, and Put with them (all with shields and helmets),
The descendants of Japheth: Gomer,
Magog, = RUSSIA
Madai, = IRAN
Javan, = AMERICA
Tubal, = POLAND
Meshech = HUNGARY
Tiras. = ITALY
6
Gomer with all its troops, Beth-togarmah from the recesses of the north with all its troops, many peoples with you.
THIS MUST BE FRANCE, GERMANY, SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES.
FINALLY, THIS IS A ROUGHT PICTURE HOW RUSSIAN RED ARMY WILL INVADE JERUSALEM, ISRAEL IN WORLD RECORD TIME OF ONE MONTH.
GOD BLESS ISRAEL.
MR. ROBIN DONALD.
KUALA LUMPUR,
MALAYSIA.
DATE: 15TH, AUGUST, 2010.
Bicycle
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle
TOCOMA
http://www.toyota.com/tacoma/trims-prices.html
YARIS
http://www.toyota.com/
KAWASAKI 250F
http://www.kawasaki.com/home/home.aspx
Ezekiel
Chapter 38
http|||Thanks for your work! The words of God our Creator cannot and will not fail to come to pass...james the hollow earth man|||Step back, take a deep breath and then take your silly ranting to somewhere other than the United States Yahoo Answers military forums, which went somewhere that-a-way
%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;----------------%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;|||SHOUTING DOESN'T MAKE ANYTHING MORE CONVINCING...... OR LOGICAL.|||WTF!!??
Why won't my motorcycles fan stop?Kawasaki 454 Ltd?
Many of you are going to say it's running hot still-But I never even had the bike running. I bought a new battery to try and see If I could get it to start installed it left it on charge and came back and it was worse that when I left. I didn't hear the fan running when I left but when I came back and put the jumper on it again I hear it whirl up. I though that I must've left it in the on position but with the key in my pocket I quickly realized that wasn't the case.|||fan temp. sensor is kaput. need to confirm and replace.|||ye...the temp sensor is the main culprit here...
u could add a manual switch to the fan...i have been using it for about 1 year...
locate the fan switch on the radiator and add a switch from there without disconnecting any wire ...
u could add a manual switch to the fan...i have been using it for about 1 year...
locate the fan switch on the radiator and add a switch from there without disconnecting any wire ...
My boyfriend wants to get a motorcycle a 2008 kawasaki ninja 250r?
is this a good bike? how much does it usually cost? Anybody have some input on whether its worth getting it as a second means of transportation?
Thanks!|||The 250 is a great starting bike. His height and weight is just fine for a 250. I wouldn't suggest getting anything bigger until he has had some experience. 2008 and up ninja 250's usually go for around $3500-4000 used. You can get older ones for much cheaper but they do not look as nice. Also have him look into the new Honda CBR250 and the Hyosung GT250.
Also make sure he gets the right gear to start riding, most people do not realize that it takes a lot to get started in riding motorcycles. License fee's, insurance and registration on top of a good quality helmet, gloves, and riding jacket at the very least are all additional costs that are not usually factored into the price of owning a motorcycle.
P.S. Make sure he doesn't get a big head and try to buy a bigger sport bike off the bat. Most of the people who I ride with on 600's and 1000's probably are still unable to ride a 250 at its full potential.|||People who want 500cc and larger motorcycles want the motorcycle for recreation, for fun. People who want motorcycle for transportation know that the 250R is as an excellent for *any* person, new or experienced. Personally I prefer the 2007 and earlier 250R's -- a inch smaller, 45 pounds lighter, and thus quicker and easier to ride.|||The 2008 Ninja 250r has a seat height of 30.5 inches and is well suited for someone 5'9". It will top out at over 100 mph and does the 1/4 mile faster than most cars. That should be enough power. You can find the value of motorcycles at Kelly Blue book site. KBB.com/motorcycles This bike was designed with the beginner in mind. The only drawback with the Ninja is it is not well suited for carrying a passenger.|||I know someone that has a 250 ninja and it is a good commuter bike. He said that it works kind of hard when going on the interstate but around town or on highways it's plenty of bike.|||250 is a great starter bike because it is fairly safe. A 500 is twice the power and it is best to start from lower power and work your way up. Hope this helps!
Thanks!|||The 250 is a great starting bike. His height and weight is just fine for a 250. I wouldn't suggest getting anything bigger until he has had some experience. 2008 and up ninja 250's usually go for around $3500-4000 used. You can get older ones for much cheaper but they do not look as nice. Also have him look into the new Honda CBR250 and the Hyosung GT250.
Also make sure he gets the right gear to start riding, most people do not realize that it takes a lot to get started in riding motorcycles. License fee's, insurance and registration on top of a good quality helmet, gloves, and riding jacket at the very least are all additional costs that are not usually factored into the price of owning a motorcycle.
P.S. Make sure he doesn't get a big head and try to buy a bigger sport bike off the bat. Most of the people who I ride with on 600's and 1000's probably are still unable to ride a 250 at its full potential.|||People who want 500cc and larger motorcycles want the motorcycle for recreation, for fun. People who want motorcycle for transportation know that the 250R is as an excellent for *any* person, new or experienced. Personally I prefer the 2007 and earlier 250R's -- a inch smaller, 45 pounds lighter, and thus quicker and easier to ride.|||The 2008 Ninja 250r has a seat height of 30.5 inches and is well suited for someone 5'9". It will top out at over 100 mph and does the 1/4 mile faster than most cars. That should be enough power. You can find the value of motorcycles at Kelly Blue book site. KBB.com/motorcycles This bike was designed with the beginner in mind. The only drawback with the Ninja is it is not well suited for carrying a passenger.|||I know someone that has a 250 ninja and it is a good commuter bike. He said that it works kind of hard when going on the interstate but around town or on highways it's plenty of bike.|||250 is a great starter bike because it is fairly safe. A 500 is twice the power and it is best to start from lower power and work your way up. Hope this helps!
How do u time a 2004 kawasaki 250ex dohc motorcycle engin?
i also need to know which cylinder is number 1 and 2.|||Number one cylinder is on the left side on a vertical twin and the front cylinder on a V twin
Is a kawasaki klr650 a good motorcycle?
I am interested in purchasing a new bike and I think I have settled on the 2009 kawasaki klr650 dualsport. I do have a few questions however...
%26gt; Is this a good bike as far as quality is concerned?
%26gt; Would I be able to keep up on the interstate?
%26gt; I have heard that this bike is good for long trips, is this true?
%26gt; What are your thoughts of the klr650 dualsport?
Any opinions are greatly appreciated... thanks!|||a 650 will def keep up on the highway, the only issue i've heard about kawasaki is finding good parts later|||read all about it here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_鈥?/a>
%26gt; Is this a good bike as far as quality is concerned?
%26gt; Would I be able to keep up on the interstate?
%26gt; I have heard that this bike is good for long trips, is this true?
%26gt; What are your thoughts of the klr650 dualsport?
Any opinions are greatly appreciated... thanks!|||a 650 will def keep up on the highway, the only issue i've heard about kawasaki is finding good parts later|||read all about it here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_鈥?/a>
Does anyone own a Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 motorcycle? Or a Triumph Rocket III?
I'm thinking both are powerful, like the big tires, and the long wheelbase. Who has acually had one? I think I would be more comfortable with a V or R... I have a HD roadking and it cramps my legs and back and arms.
Love to know before I buy or trade.|||Ive got a vulcan 1600 mean streak
i love mine tots of power
Love to know before I buy or trade.|||Ive got a vulcan 1600 mean streak
i love mine tots of power
Percentages of failed plastic oil pump gear in 1999 kawasaki nomad motorcycle?
would just like to see some numbers on this. they are posted somewhere. i jusy can not remember or fine where. thank you|||The ones that failed were most likely repaired by dealers under warranty up until last year. Kawasaki no longer warrantees them after 10 years. Many others whose oil gear did not yet fail replaced them pre-emptively with an aftermarket gear. I have never seen any hard numbers on it, though.
What is causing my 1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Motorcycle to lack a lot of power?
Tune up, change plugs, clean (or replace) air filter, adjust valves and carbs (if needed). Clean the float bowls for added insurance.|||Check your vacum lines especially the one on the right air filter make sure its not bottomed out . This can cause the problems your talking about...|||Tune up, change plugs, clean (or replace) air filter, adjust valves and carbs (if needed). Clean the float bowls for added insurance.|||Dirty carb, intake system, dirty injectors, a lube job.
How should i prepare for riding a Kawasaki Ninja 250R in the winter?
I live in Minnesota and our winters are very cold.What is the best winter gear for riding motorcycles at 12 degrees farenheit?What are the best winter tires for the Kawasaki Ninja 250R?|||Park it!!! It's too cold for both man and machine, the roads are slippery, drivers will not be watching out for motorcycles, and the motorcycle will be ruined by corrosion after just one winter, even if you manage to keep it upright. There are no such things as "winter tires' for motorcycles--for good reason.|||I have spent time in Minnesota. 12 degrees is a heat wave.
Seriously, heed Firecracker's answer. Road conditions are just too dangerous during the winter for your riding safety.
But if you choose otherwise, look up Steve Becraft's historic winter motorcycle ride across Canada Jan/Feb 2010.
A sport bike will not cut it for winter riding. See last link below.
Good Luck|||Wash it, wax it, and put stabilizer in the fuel. Change the oil and put it up on the stand.
Cover it with a sheet.
"From ice to ice, the weather's nice" - and in between is a whole different story.
Ice is the killer, more than anything else.
Those cagers that don't see you in summer won't look for you in winter, guaranteed.|||You can buy electric riding suites these days.Also electric anti-fog shields for your helmet.As far as tires go,You only got two wheels so as long as there good as far as tread goes thereis not much more one could do.
Good luck and keep the shiny side up;|||you need one of those snowmobiles.
Seriously, heed Firecracker's answer. Road conditions are just too dangerous during the winter for your riding safety.
But if you choose otherwise, look up Steve Becraft's historic winter motorcycle ride across Canada Jan/Feb 2010.
A sport bike will not cut it for winter riding. See last link below.
Good Luck|||Wash it, wax it, and put stabilizer in the fuel. Change the oil and put it up on the stand.
Cover it with a sheet.
"From ice to ice, the weather's nice" - and in between is a whole different story.
Ice is the killer, more than anything else.
Those cagers that don't see you in summer won't look for you in winter, guaranteed.|||You can buy electric riding suites these days.Also electric anti-fog shields for your helmet.As far as tires go,You only got two wheels so as long as there good as far as tread goes thereis not much more one could do.
Good luck and keep the shiny side up;|||you need one of those snowmobiles.
Where can I buy a used Kawasaki motorcycle in south eastern Mass.?
I'm looking for a 1991-1997 Kawasaki Ninja 250R|||ebay - you can restrict search radius
craigs list
local dealerships - use yellow pages, let your fingers do the walking|||craig's list, area specific...plenty there within 50 miles
craigs list
local dealerships - use yellow pages, let your fingers do the walking|||craig's list, area specific...plenty there within 50 miles
Is a 1975 Kawasaki 500 motorcycle, 3 cylinder, 2 stroke, worth the cost of restoring?
It only has 13,000 miles on it but it has been sitting for over 20 years.|||Yes, if you are restoring it as a personal project and satisfaction. No if you are restoring it to make money (some conditions apply).
I have been restoring motorcycles now for 15 years, mostly as a hobby and some business. And I am currently restoring a 1980 Kawasaki KZ 1300 6 cylinder. Of all the Brands of Japanese motorcycles, Kawasaki can be one of the most expensive to restore. Why? Parts availability and condition of the motorcycle when you got it. Generally, the older the bike is the harder and more expensive it is to restore. But in your case, you got lucky. There is support and tons of information and parts resource for restoring the old Kawasaki out there, I'll supply a link to a forum to get you started researching. http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/ I am a member of this forum so I know you will have what you need in terms of support and resources. All you need is the time, money and willingness to restore this rare 2-stroke bike.
Rule of thumb to determining a good restoration project is:
1. Condition of the bike. If it has been just stored and does not look beat up. Thats a +
2. Is the Bike complete with all factory parts installed or with it? If so thats a +
3. Is the engine seized up or cranks freely? If cranks freely, thats a +
4. Does the transmission shifter shift into a gear and neutral? If so thats a +
5. Any alterations done to the frame or body? If so, thata a -
6. Is the Title available? If so, thats a big + (can be a deal-breaker for a street bike if title is not available)
7. Researching the Bike prior to seeing the machine will give you a good idea what to expect in terms of costs of restoration, parts availbility and what original parts are there or missing if you need to make a decision on the spot once you there with the seller
If you already bought the bike, good luck in the restoration project. Please note that mileage on the older machines are not as important as the condition of the engine itself. A low-mileage engine that has set up for 20 years can develop problems due to deterioration and lack of care.|||I bought this bike brand new, It was running when it was parked inside a garage all these years. Only one original part missing on it...the air filter housing thingie! Don't know what its called. Is it true that I won't be able to get it street legal if I didn't keep up the registration?
|||They are popular and sought after but, because they are popular, parts can be over-priced, if all the parts, especially body work and exhausts are there and in good nick then an H1 can be worth a bit, without all of it you will bidding against enthusiasts around the world for the rarer parts.
Generally restorations do not recoup the cost of the labour or the parts and are done for personal satisfaction rather than outright gain, professional restorers have incredible standards which is why they can make a living from their work.|||Depends on for what you plan to use the bike for.
If you expect to ride it on the street you may be disappointed when it comes time to re-register it unless the owner kept it current for all those years, as 2 strokes have not been legal on the street for years unless the reg's have been.
But it was a nice little screamer for its time and would be a fashion statement at any oldie's rally.
It's one of those 'yes I love it, but do I need it' decisions that only you can decide.
Good Luck!|||Depends on the condition. If it was running and just parked for 20 years then you might have a good chance at making some money. All of the 3 cylinder 2 stroke bikes are now collector's items. The Kawasaki 750 being the holy grail of the blue smoke specials. But the 500 is not a bad find either. How much are you paying for it?|||You won't make money on it, but I wouldn't think that's the point, anyway. Cool bike! I see a few of them ring-dinging around my city from time to time. They were generally ridden really hard, so the low mileage doesn't necessarily mean that it's in great shape internally. If I came across one, and was thinking of buying it, I would look into the cost and availability of parts first, especially carb parts, and pistons and rings.|||He11 yeah, that bike is a collectors' item. Call this guy:
http://californiatriples.com/
if you need parts. He has restored dozens of those and can advise you. He is in San Leandro, California and I bet he will ship anywhere in the world. Those H1's are ferocious bikes.|||Rare bird, it's not about the cost it's about having a collectors bike, unless it burns to the ground it will never lose value, and if the economy improves it will only go up in value. nice find.|||Nice bikes, but the spares can be very expensive. This place does spares for them.
https://www.z-power.co.uk/merchantmanager/index.php?cPath=1_37|||I would say it is worth it. If not you could donate it to Barber Motorsports Park. They have an awesome museum. And that might make a fine edition.
http://www.barbermuseum.org/|||The cost of restoration often exceeds the value of the bike. In the end its more about the journey then the destination.
I have been restoring motorcycles now for 15 years, mostly as a hobby and some business. And I am currently restoring a 1980 Kawasaki KZ 1300 6 cylinder. Of all the Brands of Japanese motorcycles, Kawasaki can be one of the most expensive to restore. Why? Parts availability and condition of the motorcycle when you got it. Generally, the older the bike is the harder and more expensive it is to restore. But in your case, you got lucky. There is support and tons of information and parts resource for restoring the old Kawasaki out there, I'll supply a link to a forum to get you started researching. http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/ I am a member of this forum so I know you will have what you need in terms of support and resources. All you need is the time, money and willingness to restore this rare 2-stroke bike.
Rule of thumb to determining a good restoration project is:
1. Condition of the bike. If it has been just stored and does not look beat up. Thats a +
2. Is the Bike complete with all factory parts installed or with it? If so thats a +
3. Is the engine seized up or cranks freely? If cranks freely, thats a +
4. Does the transmission shifter shift into a gear and neutral? If so thats a +
5. Any alterations done to the frame or body? If so, thata a -
6. Is the Title available? If so, thats a big + (can be a deal-breaker for a street bike if title is not available)
7. Researching the Bike prior to seeing the machine will give you a good idea what to expect in terms of costs of restoration, parts availbility and what original parts are there or missing if you need to make a decision on the spot once you there with the seller
If you already bought the bike, good luck in the restoration project. Please note that mileage on the older machines are not as important as the condition of the engine itself. A low-mileage engine that has set up for 20 years can develop problems due to deterioration and lack of care.|||I bought this bike brand new, It was running when it was parked inside a garage all these years. Only one original part missing on it...the air filter housing thingie! Don't know what its called. Is it true that I won't be able to get it street legal if I didn't keep up the registration?
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|||They are popular and sought after but, because they are popular, parts can be over-priced, if all the parts, especially body work and exhausts are there and in good nick then an H1 can be worth a bit, without all of it you will bidding against enthusiasts around the world for the rarer parts.
Generally restorations do not recoup the cost of the labour or the parts and are done for personal satisfaction rather than outright gain, professional restorers have incredible standards which is why they can make a living from their work.|||Depends on for what you plan to use the bike for.
If you expect to ride it on the street you may be disappointed when it comes time to re-register it unless the owner kept it current for all those years, as 2 strokes have not been legal on the street for years unless the reg's have been.
But it was a nice little screamer for its time and would be a fashion statement at any oldie's rally.
It's one of those 'yes I love it, but do I need it' decisions that only you can decide.
Good Luck!|||Depends on the condition. If it was running and just parked for 20 years then you might have a good chance at making some money. All of the 3 cylinder 2 stroke bikes are now collector's items. The Kawasaki 750 being the holy grail of the blue smoke specials. But the 500 is not a bad find either. How much are you paying for it?|||You won't make money on it, but I wouldn't think that's the point, anyway. Cool bike! I see a few of them ring-dinging around my city from time to time. They were generally ridden really hard, so the low mileage doesn't necessarily mean that it's in great shape internally. If I came across one, and was thinking of buying it, I would look into the cost and availability of parts first, especially carb parts, and pistons and rings.|||He11 yeah, that bike is a collectors' item. Call this guy:
http://californiatriples.com/
if you need parts. He has restored dozens of those and can advise you. He is in San Leandro, California and I bet he will ship anywhere in the world. Those H1's are ferocious bikes.|||Rare bird, it's not about the cost it's about having a collectors bike, unless it burns to the ground it will never lose value, and if the economy improves it will only go up in value. nice find.|||Nice bikes, but the spares can be very expensive. This place does spares for them.
https://www.z-power.co.uk/merchantmanager/index.php?cPath=1_37|||I would say it is worth it. If not you could donate it to Barber Motorsports Park. They have an awesome museum. And that might make a fine edition.
http://www.barbermuseum.org/|||The cost of restoration often exceeds the value of the bike. In the end its more about the journey then the destination.
Where can i buy nice honda, kawasaki, yamaha, suzuki or harley davidson motorcycles for less price?
the supplier will have to be able to ship it to my location but i'll cover the shipment cost obviously
ONCE AGAIN - price must be reasonable|||www.bikesales.com.au if you live in australia. I bought my kawasaki from there and got a great deal. The shipping costs are through the roof though, and many transport companies won't even touch a bike that has had fuel in it. Good luck!|||you should check e-bay or some other web site. just be careful u dont get scamed.|||a reasonable price will be lost by the cost of shipping. where is the logic?|||Generally the less something costs, the less it is worth to the buyer (you) and the seller.
Everyone wants something with a reasonable price would you not be better buying something of reasonable quality?
Do you want a bike to ride or a bike to repair?
I suppose that is the question that I would ask of you.
I have a flat tire that I will sell to you-- Cheap!
]-)|||Try www.criagslist.com|||Craigslist.com Cycletrader.com
Or, wait till the '08 models come out and get one from a dealer.|||whats reasonable? what bike ? what model? $, Euro or rupees. Where to.
If you want a useful answer ask a proper question , dont assume we know what you are talking about.
For a start you dont even know what brand you want, and you dont even know what model.
Therefore you are not even close to a buying decision so what do you want ? apart from wasting peoples time?????
Jerks that ask these questions shiit me
ONCE AGAIN - price must be reasonable|||www.bikesales.com.au if you live in australia. I bought my kawasaki from there and got a great deal. The shipping costs are through the roof though, and many transport companies won't even touch a bike that has had fuel in it. Good luck!|||you should check e-bay or some other web site. just be careful u dont get scamed.|||a reasonable price will be lost by the cost of shipping. where is the logic?|||Generally the less something costs, the less it is worth to the buyer (you) and the seller.
Everyone wants something with a reasonable price would you not be better buying something of reasonable quality?
Do you want a bike to ride or a bike to repair?
I suppose that is the question that I would ask of you.
I have a flat tire that I will sell to you-- Cheap!
]-)|||Try www.criagslist.com|||Craigslist.com Cycletrader.com
Or, wait till the '08 models come out and get one from a dealer.|||whats reasonable? what bike ? what model? $, Euro or rupees. Where to.
If you want a useful answer ask a proper question , dont assume we know what you are talking about.
For a start you dont even know what brand you want, and you dont even know what model.
Therefore you are not even close to a buying decision so what do you want ? apart from wasting peoples time?????
Jerks that ask these questions shiit me
Has anyone heard of a 1965-67 Kawasaki J1 motorcycle?
I own a 1965-1967 Kawasaki J1 85cc Motorcycle, I cant find any information anywhere about it...Does anyone have any info, All I have is a spec sheet...Anyone know it its worth anything, where I can find info, etc?|||Try the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
www.vjmc.com you'll have to join, but, they will probably be a wealth of info regarding model info and perhaps part sources|||There are shop manuals on this page.
http://206.220.211.71/shop/searchresults鈥?/a>
www.vjmc.com you'll have to join, but, they will probably be a wealth of info regarding model info and perhaps part sources|||There are shop manuals on this page.
http://206.220.211.71/shop/searchresults鈥?/a>
I dont know how much i should lean to the sides when I make a turn with my kawasaki motorcycle?
my friends say lean asmuch as you can, you wont fall.,but still how much though??|||Sign up for a California Superbike training course. They teach you all you need to know about cornering. Or buy book "A Twist of the Wrist" by Keith Code.|||How ever much you are comfortable with when you are riding the bike.
The faster you are travelling through a corner the more you can lean, this is due to the rotation of the wheels.
But you ride it how you feel comfortable, after all - its your SKIN!!!
Wear leathers!|||YOU'D BETTER SIGN UP FOR A RIDER COURSE ASKING THIS KIND OF QUESTION. SPEED, TURN ANGLE, WEIGHT, ALL FACTORS TO CONSIDER|||However much you lean depend on how fast your going. but remember this one tip...try to keep your back parallel to the bikes lean angle.Even the fastest riders who may not even have behind on the set, follow this rule. look at some pictures of fast riders and you will see what I'm talking about. And when going really slow around a turn. You may not have to lean at all.|||You need to find where you r comfortable and feel the most relaxed. A motorcycle is nothing to mess around with until you are feeling the most comfortable on the bike. You just gotta feel it.|||Leaning is not as important as contersteering.
For a left turn - turn the bars a little to the "right" and lean left.|||I have a Kawasaki motorcycle and it handles corners like a dream. The motorcycle safety foundation urges riders to slow down just before entering a curve , and look through the curve and accelerate while you're in the turn . As you gain experience you'll find your own comfort zone . I have leaned my bike over to the point where my foot pegs drag the ground and have not fallen over . I would not recommend this at high speeds .|||UNLESS YOU ARE A RACER, AND I DONT THINK YOU ARE. JUST COUNTERSTEER. USE THE HANDLEBARS. DETERMINE THAT YOU WILL STEER IT WITH THE BARS AND LOOK WHERE YOU WANT TO GO. DONOT FIXATE ON THE EDGE OF THE TURN, OR YOU WILL FIND IT. LEAN AS MUCH AS THE BIKE, OR PERHAPS SOME LESS IF YOU ARE REALLY GOING FAST. BRAKE BEFORE THE TURN, NO IN IT. ACCELERATE OUT. IF YOU HAVE TO DO A BUNCH OF CHANGES MID TURN YOU OR YOUR BIKE NEEDS TUNING.
The faster you are travelling through a corner the more you can lean, this is due to the rotation of the wheels.
But you ride it how you feel comfortable, after all - its your SKIN!!!
Wear leathers!|||YOU'D BETTER SIGN UP FOR A RIDER COURSE ASKING THIS KIND OF QUESTION. SPEED, TURN ANGLE, WEIGHT, ALL FACTORS TO CONSIDER|||However much you lean depend on how fast your going. but remember this one tip...try to keep your back parallel to the bikes lean angle.Even the fastest riders who may not even have behind on the set, follow this rule. look at some pictures of fast riders and you will see what I'm talking about. And when going really slow around a turn. You may not have to lean at all.|||You need to find where you r comfortable and feel the most relaxed. A motorcycle is nothing to mess around with until you are feeling the most comfortable on the bike. You just gotta feel it.|||Leaning is not as important as contersteering.
For a left turn - turn the bars a little to the "right" and lean left.|||I have a Kawasaki motorcycle and it handles corners like a dream. The motorcycle safety foundation urges riders to slow down just before entering a curve , and look through the curve and accelerate while you're in the turn . As you gain experience you'll find your own comfort zone . I have leaned my bike over to the point where my foot pegs drag the ground and have not fallen over . I would not recommend this at high speeds .|||UNLESS YOU ARE A RACER, AND I DONT THINK YOU ARE. JUST COUNTERSTEER. USE THE HANDLEBARS. DETERMINE THAT YOU WILL STEER IT WITH THE BARS AND LOOK WHERE YOU WANT TO GO. DONOT FIXATE ON THE EDGE OF THE TURN, OR YOU WILL FIND IT. LEAN AS MUCH AS THE BIKE, OR PERHAPS SOME LESS IF YOU ARE REALLY GOING FAST. BRAKE BEFORE THE TURN, NO IN IT. ACCELERATE OUT. IF YOU HAVE TO DO A BUNCH OF CHANGES MID TURN YOU OR YOUR BIKE NEEDS TUNING.
My husband has a Kawasaki 454 ltd motorcycle and needs to know how to adjust the carburetor?
Because there are two, that can be tricky as they have to be synchronized. Usually this is done with a dual vacuum synchronizer.
This would probably be better done by someone who knows what they are doing.|||The only adjustment that these carbs have is a air mixture screw for the idle circuit. For any other carb issues you need to remove them and have them cleaned or repaired.
The screws have caps over them so you need to remove the carbs to drill out the caps. Sorry, no easy adjustments.
You can get a complete breakdown of parts at www.mrcycles.com
One of the torrent sites has a shop manual download on this bike. Check www.thepiratebay.com
This would probably be better done by someone who knows what they are doing.|||The only adjustment that these carbs have is a air mixture screw for the idle circuit. For any other carb issues you need to remove them and have them cleaned or repaired.
The screws have caps over them so you need to remove the carbs to drill out the caps. Sorry, no easy adjustments.
You can get a complete breakdown of parts at www.mrcycles.com
One of the torrent sites has a shop manual download on this bike. Check www.thepiratebay.com
How can I become a motorcycle test rider for either a team or manufacture,ie kawasaki ,yamaha or the others?
I love motorcycles and would love to test them for a career. I was just wondering if this was even possible.|||Test piloting motorcycles requires becoming familiar with what your doing.Lots of time,practice and dedication,talent and a little money don`t hurt either.Every person that works on his bike and races is basically a test pilot,You got to be ready for anything flying around at them speeds,cause a mistake building the bike can wreck your whole day.A good rider knows how his machine will react and if they are worth their salt they can anticipate and plan moves ahead,but even the best can have a bad day.Learn from your mistakes,cause they can hurt a lot and you don`t want to be repeating it.Basically mate, DO IT.I did,so did my dad,uncles and grandfather.We all raced.My uncle was the one who done the stage 3 kit for the Yamaha MT.It all starts with racing and riding lots of different machines,for years and being good enough to earn respect and having some brains and mechanical knowledge,so people will not only listen to what you have to say but give your opinion on a bike some worth|||Unless you are an ex racer you will never be a test rider for a manufacturer!!!!
With regards to race teams, it is basically the same except you would have to be a "privateer" who is doing well in their class of racing. IE 125cc or 250cc and looking for a promoter and sponsor for the next season, Then you have to get noticed, as being a reliable and progressive rider always making points on the grid..
Then if you are lucky through your pit connections and through the head hunters you will get a chance to work with the bigger teams, This would be in contest to your racing career and you would have to sacrifice your racing to support a star team... Showing commitment to the team and the star rider.
So it is a catch 22 situation; Either be an ex race rider.... or a race rider happy to end their career.
AND if you were to go down the press avenue and be a correspondent or reporter, you will have to have a previous reputation and following. BTW FEW and I do mean FEW writers for the major publications actually get to ride anything other the run of the mill; again only the ex race or sponsored race riders get to play with the big toys..
Your third option, ( AND THE MOST LIKELY) Is to get employed by a bike shop working in the workshop preparing bikes for the customer PDI inspections ( you can even get an NVQ qualification); You will then also need a full bike licence and public indemnity insurance and i would go for a specialist or advanced driving qualification.
Then you will be invited to ride each bike to assess its condition and ensure it is sound and suitable for sale and write a full 100 point report on the bike, even assess it's second hand / resale/ value and Gross profit. work out the market and even make decisions if the bike is suitable for sale by your shop or better passed on to another dealer.
It's a start from the bottom up job, fetching coffees moping floor dusting bikes and cleaning loo's before getting to the cream
Good luck|||You would need to live close to the factory to use the factory test facilities. But chances are you would have a easier time getting a job as a writer at one of the cycle rags and work your way up to test drives, since all the companies give the rags bikes to test ride for a set period of time. That way you ride on the roads you want to etc. But again, chances are you are gonna have to live around southern California where most of this stuff comes out of.
Depending on where you live you might want to explore getting involved in motorcycle "adventure" riding. It is where people would pay you to house them, feed them and provide a motorcycle for them to be able to ride on some sort of adventure. If you live in a mountainous state, the great local roads that outsiders would not know. If in a desert state, on/off road rides thru the desert. If along a coast-rides along some great water roadways. Of course you would have to supply the bikes, the gear van to take their luggage to the next stop, and a replacement vehicle for when your customers bike that you supplied breaks down.|||You can probably go to your local motorcycle dealer to find that out. Or you can just call their phone number which would probably be on their website. I hope this helps.|||it can be pretty hard mate because usually the people that do the jobs are ex racers from many forms of motorbike racing|||They use pro racers for that.
With regards to race teams, it is basically the same except you would have to be a "privateer" who is doing well in their class of racing. IE 125cc or 250cc and looking for a promoter and sponsor for the next season, Then you have to get noticed, as being a reliable and progressive rider always making points on the grid..
Then if you are lucky through your pit connections and through the head hunters you will get a chance to work with the bigger teams, This would be in contest to your racing career and you would have to sacrifice your racing to support a star team... Showing commitment to the team and the star rider.
So it is a catch 22 situation; Either be an ex race rider.... or a race rider happy to end their career.
AND if you were to go down the press avenue and be a correspondent or reporter, you will have to have a previous reputation and following. BTW FEW and I do mean FEW writers for the major publications actually get to ride anything other the run of the mill; again only the ex race or sponsored race riders get to play with the big toys..
Your third option, ( AND THE MOST LIKELY) Is to get employed by a bike shop working in the workshop preparing bikes for the customer PDI inspections ( you can even get an NVQ qualification); You will then also need a full bike licence and public indemnity insurance and i would go for a specialist or advanced driving qualification.
Then you will be invited to ride each bike to assess its condition and ensure it is sound and suitable for sale and write a full 100 point report on the bike, even assess it's second hand / resale/ value and Gross profit. work out the market and even make decisions if the bike is suitable for sale by your shop or better passed on to another dealer.
It's a start from the bottom up job, fetching coffees moping floor dusting bikes and cleaning loo's before getting to the cream
Good luck|||You would need to live close to the factory to use the factory test facilities. But chances are you would have a easier time getting a job as a writer at one of the cycle rags and work your way up to test drives, since all the companies give the rags bikes to test ride for a set period of time. That way you ride on the roads you want to etc. But again, chances are you are gonna have to live around southern California where most of this stuff comes out of.
Depending on where you live you might want to explore getting involved in motorcycle "adventure" riding. It is where people would pay you to house them, feed them and provide a motorcycle for them to be able to ride on some sort of adventure. If you live in a mountainous state, the great local roads that outsiders would not know. If in a desert state, on/off road rides thru the desert. If along a coast-rides along some great water roadways. Of course you would have to supply the bikes, the gear van to take their luggage to the next stop, and a replacement vehicle for when your customers bike that you supplied breaks down.|||You can probably go to your local motorcycle dealer to find that out. Or you can just call their phone number which would probably be on their website. I hope this helps.|||it can be pretty hard mate because usually the people that do the jobs are ex racers from many forms of motorbike racing|||They use pro racers for that.
Motorcycles: Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki?
Similarities, differences, which is better?|||All the Japanese mfgrs are very good. They compete strongly with one another. I'm a Honda man myself because I have a big water-cooled Honda that has 75,000 miles on it and never needed as much as a valve adjustment. But they're all pretty good. And each brand has is devotees.|||SUZUKI ALL THE WAY! but to be honest jap bikes are all very good, much respect for all of them|||Triumph, KTM, Aprilia, Ducati
First bike? Get some training, start with small displacement and work your way up.|||I've had all kinds of motorcycles and for the past 15 years I have stuck to HONDA's I think they are one of the best. I have never broke down or had any kind of problem with them.|||Honda is the motorcycle all others are measured by.
First bike? Get some training, start with small displacement and work your way up.|||I've had all kinds of motorcycles and for the past 15 years I have stuck to HONDA's I think they are one of the best. I have never broke down or had any kind of problem with them.|||Honda is the motorcycle all others are measured by.
How do i properly winterize my '95 kawasaki ninja zx6r motorcycle?
my first season with the bike. must i disconnect the battery? does anything need to be drained? stand?|||You should put a battery tender on the battery, especially if not stored in a heated area. You should change the oil and fill the gas tank before storing, and turn the fuel lever off and allow the motor to run out the gas in the carbs.Store the bike on the center stand.
You should definitely change the oil BEFORE storing as old oil contains corrosive contaminants as byproducts of the combustion process. Some also recommend changing the oil in the spring as well, but any moisture that has built up over the winter will evaporate when you ride it again in the spring|||Better than disconnecting the battery is to put on a pigtail and charge it periodically. The 2 best chargers I've found are the Battery Tender and Ctek, but it seems like everybody is making a smart charger now.
Fill the gas tank completely and add Sta-bil.
And finally, change the oil, a new filter is optional, but you want to get any acid out of the crankcase. Run the bike for a few minutes to get the new oil to circulate.
If the bike has a center stand, use it. Getting the tires off the ground for just over the winter isn't necessary, though do make sure they have the correct pressure in them.
Been riding for 45 years - sometimes I have taken these precautions, sometimes I haven't (I'm as lazy as the next guy) but if I don't spring is always more expensive.|||Take out the battery and place it where it stays above freezing. Make shure you place it on a wood surface rather then metal or concrete. Trickle charge it once a month. As far as the rest of the bike goes some people add stabilizer to their gas, but I've never had a problem without it. Store it with a full tank of gas. When you go to use it the next year, do an oil change and install the battery and your ready to go. Some people like to lift their bike and keep weight off the tires.|||This pretty much covers it.
http://www.dansmc.com/winterize.htm
You should definitely change the oil BEFORE storing as old oil contains corrosive contaminants as byproducts of the combustion process. Some also recommend changing the oil in the spring as well, but any moisture that has built up over the winter will evaporate when you ride it again in the spring|||Better than disconnecting the battery is to put on a pigtail and charge it periodically. The 2 best chargers I've found are the Battery Tender and Ctek, but it seems like everybody is making a smart charger now.
Fill the gas tank completely and add Sta-bil.
And finally, change the oil, a new filter is optional, but you want to get any acid out of the crankcase. Run the bike for a few minutes to get the new oil to circulate.
If the bike has a center stand, use it. Getting the tires off the ground for just over the winter isn't necessary, though do make sure they have the correct pressure in them.
Been riding for 45 years - sometimes I have taken these precautions, sometimes I haven't (I'm as lazy as the next guy) but if I don't spring is always more expensive.|||Take out the battery and place it where it stays above freezing. Make shure you place it on a wood surface rather then metal or concrete. Trickle charge it once a month. As far as the rest of the bike goes some people add stabilizer to their gas, but I've never had a problem without it. Store it with a full tank of gas. When you go to use it the next year, do an oil change and install the battery and your ready to go. Some people like to lift their bike and keep weight off the tires.|||This pretty much covers it.
http://www.dansmc.com/winterize.htm
What is the best way to remove the plastic coating from engine cases on a classic Kawasaki ?
I am riding and restoring a 1980 kawasaki 650 Four F1 motorcycle, and decided to try and polish the aluminum engine side cases due to them being tarnished and corroded beneath the plastic coating due to the age of the machine. Other than sandpaper or steel wool, I was hoping there might be an easier and less obtrusive technique for removing the protective plastic coating from the aluminum parts on my bike?|||get a flame thrower|||It should be clear laquer, actually. So chemical strippers should work to take it off. The reason it is there in the first place is that aluminum will not stay shiny after you polish it without some kind of airtight coating.
That's a lot of polishing... wouldn't it look cool painted black?|||The aluminum is going to rust a lot faster. To you metallurgists, it will oxidize. It will require constant polishing and waxing. The easiest way to polish aluminum to a shinny luster is with a polishing wheel -
http://www.caswellplating.com/index.htm
Go to - Buffing Polishing|||Plastic coating? You don't mean paint coating do you? When I polished painted aluminum on my bike I just used paint stripper a wire brush and some steel wool. I let the stripper work for a while brushed it off, used O grade steal wool then OOOO steal wool, then a cloth and some mothers aluminum polish.
That's a lot of polishing... wouldn't it look cool painted black?|||The aluminum is going to rust a lot faster. To you metallurgists, it will oxidize. It will require constant polishing and waxing. The easiest way to polish aluminum to a shinny luster is with a polishing wheel -
http://www.caswellplating.com/index.htm
Go to - Buffing Polishing|||Plastic coating? You don't mean paint coating do you? When I polished painted aluminum on my bike I just used paint stripper a wire brush and some steel wool. I let the stripper work for a while brushed it off, used O grade steal wool then OOOO steal wool, then a cloth and some mothers aluminum polish.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
What does zx stand for in the kawasaki motorcycle series?
Doesn't stand for anything.
I don't think YZF stands for anything for the R6-R1.
CBR might stand for something. I'm sure fanboi up at the top of the thread would know.
GSXR probably don't stand for anything, either.|||Kawi ZX's are Sport bikes as opposed to the Street, Dirt, Cruiser, Dual sport... lines|||It doesn't mean anything. It's just how you know it's a sport bike rather than KX or MX. It's not an acronym|||Um...Zero Xcelleration?|||Simply a model designation for a line of sport bikes. Nothing more, nothing less.
I don't think YZF stands for anything for the R6-R1.
CBR might stand for something. I'm sure fanboi up at the top of the thread would know.
GSXR probably don't stand for anything, either.|||Kawi ZX's are Sport bikes as opposed to the Street, Dirt, Cruiser, Dual sport... lines|||It doesn't mean anything. It's just how you know it's a sport bike rather than KX or MX. It's not an acronym|||Um...Zero Xcelleration?|||Simply a model designation for a line of sport bikes. Nothing more, nothing less.
Can you listen to music somehow while riding a motorcycle, like a Kawasaki Ninja 650R?
Are there helmets that have a music system? Because I know that it's illegal to use headphones.|||You could opt for a blue tooth headset for listening to your favorite music BUT the question is WHY?
Please understand, when you are riding at a high speed, things happen in a split second. A delay in responding to the road situation because of a distraction (in your case - music) could mean the difference between life and death.
We all want luxury in our lives BUT there is a time and place, for everything. Please give your riding the attention it deserves; no matter how good you are at it. It pays never to be complacent.|||there are a few nice products out there, i used to use the SCALA bluetooth headsets, theyre cheap, and i got a set of 2 for about 300$, this way i could talk full duplex to my passenger as well.
but after going on longer rides and finding friends who had the ChatterBox, i decided to jump on the bandwagon, and buy one myself, it is great since you can use VOX (voice activated transmit) or PTT (push to talk) and connect your GPS, Bluetooth phone, and 3.5mm headphone jack for ipods and such.
the chatterbox is a bit pricey being 400$, but if you take in to account that i can ride with friends for about 6 hours, listening to music and talking constantly, on only one charge.
i always wear earplugs, and have no problem hearing my music or other people talking
if you want to go cheap though, you can always buy a set of 20$ foamy earphones, they fit alright under your helmet and mold to your ear and you canlisten as long as your mp3 player will last.
only problems are that in most states its illigal to have them in both ears, and in some states you cant even have it at all.
in response to saying you need to be paying attention and not listening to music, that sounds like the words of a weekend rider, i live in san francisco bay area, and i commute 5-6 days a week all year long in the rain, shine, or fog, for 1-1.5 hours through traffic, and it makes it a whole lot more bearable.
but yea, cheapest and easiest solution, 20$ earbuds, but if you ride every day, long rides, and comfort is a must, get either a SCALA or ChatterBox setup.
good luck, and enjoy the ride.
no offense.|||Not all states outlaw use of headphones on motorcycles. Some do while others allow just one ear, then others allow both ears. Check your state
s DMV. I use an MP3 player and soft ear buds. Almost every state allows ear plugs to stop wind noise. Despite what people think, you can still hear cars and horns, even loud exhausts while listening to music. The ear buds just cut out the wind noise that usually blocks horns and sirens. They also help stop hearing loss because you can select the volume that is comfortable. Just make sure you have music you like on it because trying to skip over songs while riding is VERY dangerous! Kind of like driving and text messaging.|||this is MY realm...
There are several options. My personal favorite is the speakers system attached to the bike, and driven via Ipod. I have this system on my bike
other options include helmet speakers, and helmet communicators with audio input options.
I know several people who do wear earphones while riding, and none have ever gotten in any trouble for it. how will an officer tell if you're wearing a full face helmet?|||Yeah. They've had helmets like that for a while. However, the only ones i've seen are the granddaddy looking helmets, which are kind of unfashionable, especially for a ninja. There are more than likely other styles out there, though.|||They have bluetooth helmets now
Communicate between driver and passenger and it cuts out for a cell phone call or cuts music when one or the other talks
Music is good but dead spot on cutout to switch
They still need refining|||not sure.
Please understand, when you are riding at a high speed, things happen in a split second. A delay in responding to the road situation because of a distraction (in your case - music) could mean the difference between life and death.
We all want luxury in our lives BUT there is a time and place, for everything. Please give your riding the attention it deserves; no matter how good you are at it. It pays never to be complacent.|||there are a few nice products out there, i used to use the SCALA bluetooth headsets, theyre cheap, and i got a set of 2 for about 300$, this way i could talk full duplex to my passenger as well.
but after going on longer rides and finding friends who had the ChatterBox, i decided to jump on the bandwagon, and buy one myself, it is great since you can use VOX (voice activated transmit) or PTT (push to talk) and connect your GPS, Bluetooth phone, and 3.5mm headphone jack for ipods and such.
the chatterbox is a bit pricey being 400$, but if you take in to account that i can ride with friends for about 6 hours, listening to music and talking constantly, on only one charge.
i always wear earplugs, and have no problem hearing my music or other people talking
if you want to go cheap though, you can always buy a set of 20$ foamy earphones, they fit alright under your helmet and mold to your ear and you canlisten as long as your mp3 player will last.
only problems are that in most states its illigal to have them in both ears, and in some states you cant even have it at all.
in response to saying you need to be paying attention and not listening to music, that sounds like the words of a weekend rider, i live in san francisco bay area, and i commute 5-6 days a week all year long in the rain, shine, or fog, for 1-1.5 hours through traffic, and it makes it a whole lot more bearable.
but yea, cheapest and easiest solution, 20$ earbuds, but if you ride every day, long rides, and comfort is a must, get either a SCALA or ChatterBox setup.
good luck, and enjoy the ride.
no offense.|||Not all states outlaw use of headphones on motorcycles. Some do while others allow just one ear, then others allow both ears. Check your state
s DMV. I use an MP3 player and soft ear buds. Almost every state allows ear plugs to stop wind noise. Despite what people think, you can still hear cars and horns, even loud exhausts while listening to music. The ear buds just cut out the wind noise that usually blocks horns and sirens. They also help stop hearing loss because you can select the volume that is comfortable. Just make sure you have music you like on it because trying to skip over songs while riding is VERY dangerous! Kind of like driving and text messaging.|||this is MY realm...
There are several options. My personal favorite is the speakers system attached to the bike, and driven via Ipod. I have this system on my bike
other options include helmet speakers, and helmet communicators with audio input options.
I know several people who do wear earphones while riding, and none have ever gotten in any trouble for it. how will an officer tell if you're wearing a full face helmet?|||Yeah. They've had helmets like that for a while. However, the only ones i've seen are the granddaddy looking helmets, which are kind of unfashionable, especially for a ninja. There are more than likely other styles out there, though.|||They have bluetooth helmets now
Communicate between driver and passenger and it cuts out for a cell phone call or cuts music when one or the other talks
Music is good but dead spot on cutout to switch
They still need refining|||not sure.
What's a good beginner sport motorcycle that's cheaper than the Kawasaki Ninja 250R?
I want to get this motorcycle - http://kawasaki.com/Products/Product-Spe鈥?/a>
But I'm finding the $4,000 price tag a bit too steep. What's another nice looking affordable sport motorcycle?|||you are not going to find a decent new street legal bike for under $4K
I would suggest to look for used bikes I have seen many used Suzuki SV650's out there 05, and 06's for around $3K, finding a used Yamaha FZ6 is rare, but if you do see a used FZ6 for under $4K, buy it, its the best!
There are many bargains out there due to the bad economy|||Hyosung 250GT and it will own the Ninja's|||A used Ninja 250R. I bought one only a few months old with less than a couple hundred miles on, it in perfect shape for $900 off retail. You just have to be willing to transport your baby home. I flew (short notice--$130) to LA with my gear and rode it the 400 or so miles back home. I did the same when I bought my VFR--a new but 2 year old dealer stock bike. Just because it says $4k doesn't mean you can't get one for less. Keep looking.|||Buying new is for rubes. I've owned 14 bikes, never bought new, probalby never will.
But I'm finding the $4,000 price tag a bit too steep. What's another nice looking affordable sport motorcycle?|||you are not going to find a decent new street legal bike for under $4K
I would suggest to look for used bikes I have seen many used Suzuki SV650's out there 05, and 06's for around $3K, finding a used Yamaha FZ6 is rare, but if you do see a used FZ6 for under $4K, buy it, its the best!
There are many bargains out there due to the bad economy|||Hyosung 250GT and it will own the Ninja's|||A used Ninja 250R. I bought one only a few months old with less than a couple hundred miles on, it in perfect shape for $900 off retail. You just have to be willing to transport your baby home. I flew (short notice--$130) to LA with my gear and rode it the 400 or so miles back home. I did the same when I bought my VFR--a new but 2 year old dealer stock bike. Just because it says $4k doesn't mean you can't get one for less. Keep looking.|||Buying new is for rubes. I've owned 14 bikes, never bought new, probalby never will.
How much oil do i need to change the oil on my 2005 kawasaki ninja 500 motorcycle?
i just bought the bike and i dont have the manual. and what type of oil do i need?|||most bikes use 4 qt. with filter|||read the owners manual.|||Depends on how hard you ride it, but generally every 4,000 to 5,000 kilometers (2,500 to 3,000 miles) is a good interval.
You need not replace the oil filter every change, though. Every second oil change is OK for filter replacement.
You need not replace the oil filter every change, though. Every second oil change is OK for filter replacement.
What year is my kawasaki motorcycle engine the numbers is kz750ee063629?
If the vin is KZ750EE-xxxxxx then it is from March 1980.|||Check website. What year is the bike? Unless it was a salvaged or custom frame, it should be the same.
Unfortunately I have no way of checking, thus no true answer to the question you pose.
Unfortunately I have no way of checking, thus no true answer to the question you pose.
How to take care of kawasaki 650r motorcycle?
when to change oil, when to do any maintenace ?|||You should change all of your fluids, coolant and oil every 2.000 miles. Inspect tire air pressure before every ride.. Lube your bikes chain at least every 300-500 miles. All you have to do is refer to the manual that came with your bike.
http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/detail.鈥?/a>
Good Luck|||The top 3 things that prolong a bikes life are
1. Changing oil
2. Adjusting valves
3. Cleaning carbs or jets
Also the 4th best thing you can to do prolong your life is go tothesite below and click on the yellow BUTTON that says SUBSCRIBE..ITs free and helps bikers.|||Here's some links that may help you care for your bike.
http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_鈥?/a>
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_鈥?/a>
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.ht鈥?/a>
The last link is the most important. Hope you can use it.
Good riding.|||Here is the shop manual for your bike. Just follow this site good thing it is free, I just saved you $80 USD on this thing.
http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/detail.鈥?/a>
Good Luck|||The top 3 things that prolong a bikes life are
1. Changing oil
2. Adjusting valves
3. Cleaning carbs or jets
Also the 4th best thing you can to do prolong your life is go tothesite below and click on the yellow BUTTON that says SUBSCRIBE..ITs free and helps bikers.|||Here's some links that may help you care for your bike.
http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_鈥?/a>
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_鈥?/a>
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.ht鈥?/a>
The last link is the most important. Hope you can use it.
Good riding.|||Here is the shop manual for your bike. Just follow this site good thing it is free, I just saved you $80 USD on this thing.
Which of the four motorcycles would you recommend for a beginner?
Of these four motorcycles which would you recommend
Kawasaki Ninja 250, Ninja 500
Suzuki GS500f, Katana 600|||Kawasaki Ninja 250|||Probably any of the last 3. The Ninja 250 is a fun bike, but you'll need to rev it a lot to keep up with traffic. The other three bikes are going to have more forgiving powerbands.|||The question has to be answered carefully and in more detail.
Because I see 1 bike thats best for freeway driving then 2 others that are good but not as good and then one that is not good for freeway driving.
For freeway driving best bikes in order are..
Katana 600
Suzuki GS500f
Ninja 500
Katana is best as it has more power and is heavier so its more stable in winds and at speeds
The 250 is a pain to ride on the freeway if you go over 60+
Now if you are not going to ride freeways the entire order is totally different. Last in line now would be the Katana and then first in line would be 250 Ninja as the best.
In other words revers the order as 250 as best for streets and short distances but for long long drives ie: over 35 miles or more and using freeways, the katana 600 is king.
Ninja 250 best on gas
Katana 600 not good on gas but on highways and steady speed its good on gas and safer than 250.
If it was me I would get the katana but I would not advise someone to get the katana if they were new to cycling unless.
1. They were very careful especially the first 2 months
2. It was for mainly straight (not twisty roads) and steady speed driving, not stop in go.
Since the 250 gets such awesome gas mileage you don't need to take freeways either. Read the review below on the 250 Ninja|||I own a GS500F, and I've ridden a Ninja 250 - either one is an excellent beginner bike. I've ridden about 9,000 miles and don't have any urge to trade my GS500F for anything bigger. The Ninja 250 is an incredibly light bike, which is both good (turns more easily, and is easier to manage and learn on) and bad (gets blown around by the wind a bit more). Either one will keep up with highway speeds. The Ninja 500 is pretty much comparable to the GS500F (actually a little bit faster) and also a good choice.
The Katana isn't quite as good a choice; it's not only powerful enough to make learning more difficult, but it's significantly heavier. There are worse choices, but you can do better.
My advice is to sit on the Ninja 250 and 500 and a GS500F and see which one is the most comfortable. Although if you're on a low budget, you might want to just go with the Ninja 250 as it's the most inexpensive - in price, insurance, and gas mileage.|||Any of them, really. The Katana would be pushing things a bit, and though it would be easy and light the 250 might not have what you need on the freeway.
But all are capable bikes that would be more forgiving of newbie mistakes and won't rocket you to the moon before you can blink. Sit on all of them, rock them back %26amp; forth to feel the weight, and choose the one that feels best to you.
Don't forget to budget for full gear, including boots, gloves, overpants, jacket and full-face helmet.|||Either of the 500cc bikes will be more than enough.
You'd soon out grow the 250cc bike. Just take it easy and practice alot in an empty parking lot and never ride beyond your own abilities.|||ninja 500, its got power, looks good and feels right. You could keep it for a while and still keep up with the 600s.|||depends on a number of things you haven't mentioned ... size age type of riding you want to do..etc...
In general I'd buy the bigger bike so you don't outgrow it too quickly..
First and last mistake new riders make is going very very fast.....Remember there is nothing between you and solid objects,and people love to try to kill you(accidentally of course) but what do they really care if they pull out in front of you while chatting on their cell phones ....Consider how many times it happens in a car and then realize how exposed your a** is on a bike ...It takes about 4 years to be any good on a bike and then it's usually your fault if you get hurt ...Remember to at the last second ,make one last leap away from solid objects.....Take the headlong dive toward clean air...Avoid all solid objects at all costs..|||Ninja 500, its the fastest of the group|||ninja 250 if ur just starting will have all the power u need but not enough ur gonna really hurt urself with|||In time and with more experience, you'll eventually outgrow or get bored with your starter bike. So, as long as you feel comfortable on it, go with the cheapest now so you have more $$$ later for your next upgrade. In fact, you may want to consider used instead of new for that starter. The beginner is going to spill it a few times so getting used will make that a much less painful experience, at least for the pocket book.|||Ninja 250, too small. Hard work to keep up with traffic, and revving the nuts off of it to get anywhere isn't conducive to being in control. One of my bikes is a 250 so I have some experience of this.
Katana 600. Nice bike, but not ideal for a beginner. Too heavy and the bar position doesn't make for an easy ride. Turning circle is similar to a canal barge.
I have a Ninja 500. It's a great bike. Slightly more power than the GS500F, but if you're tall check the fit out first.
GS500F. Also a great bike, but the full fairing will cost a lot when/if you drop it, and Suzuki aren't the best finished bikes. In the rust belt, they'll rot like an overripe pear.|||The one with four wheels and a strong body around it.|||i say the Katana 600 but this is b/cuz I'm partial to Suzuki. This bike has enough power to keep you interested in it for a while and why not go with a suzuki. The gsxr 750 and 1000 have won top bike honors for the last 3 years|||Get the bike take is comfortable and you can place both feet flat on the ground. It is better to grow into your bike than grow out of it. Same same skills you need to gain confidence with is the same in a larger cc as in a smaller cc. Most important is how the bike feels to you while sitting still. You dont want it to feel awkward at a still position. Tipping over is not fun. You will do a lot of stopping and how comfortable you are with the bike will determine if your stops will be smooth or tippy.|||Deffinately the suzuki GS500f. It has enough power so you can cruise at highway speeds but not so much power where it will overwhelm you. It also has a full fairing which keeps the wind off you and improves all performance aspects.|||Kawasaki Ninja 250|||A piaggio, they are great for begginers. They are nice and small and dont waste alot of fuel. Sorry i couldn't give you a recommendation for one of the bikes you said.|||What ever your choice, please always be cautious and careful and look after your life.Speed thrills but also kills.|||1.If you are under 150lbs and around 5'8" or less, the Ninja is the best.
2.Over 6' tall, get the Katana 600cc.
3. Don't bother with the 500cc bike, not a good choice.|||A beginer should learn to ride on a low powered bike in order to get used to the road. Only later should you look for speed. Remember, however, that motorbikes are statistically the most dangerous form of transport and you have a very good chance of being killed.
Kawasaki Ninja 250, Ninja 500
Suzuki GS500f, Katana 600|||Kawasaki Ninja 250|||Probably any of the last 3. The Ninja 250 is a fun bike, but you'll need to rev it a lot to keep up with traffic. The other three bikes are going to have more forgiving powerbands.|||The question has to be answered carefully and in more detail.
Because I see 1 bike thats best for freeway driving then 2 others that are good but not as good and then one that is not good for freeway driving.
For freeway driving best bikes in order are..
Katana 600
Suzuki GS500f
Ninja 500
Katana is best as it has more power and is heavier so its more stable in winds and at speeds
The 250 is a pain to ride on the freeway if you go over 60+
Now if you are not going to ride freeways the entire order is totally different. Last in line now would be the Katana and then first in line would be 250 Ninja as the best.
In other words revers the order as 250 as best for streets and short distances but for long long drives ie: over 35 miles or more and using freeways, the katana 600 is king.
Ninja 250 best on gas
Katana 600 not good on gas but on highways and steady speed its good on gas and safer than 250.
If it was me I would get the katana but I would not advise someone to get the katana if they were new to cycling unless.
1. They were very careful especially the first 2 months
2. It was for mainly straight (not twisty roads) and steady speed driving, not stop in go.
Since the 250 gets such awesome gas mileage you don't need to take freeways either. Read the review below on the 250 Ninja|||I own a GS500F, and I've ridden a Ninja 250 - either one is an excellent beginner bike. I've ridden about 9,000 miles and don't have any urge to trade my GS500F for anything bigger. The Ninja 250 is an incredibly light bike, which is both good (turns more easily, and is easier to manage and learn on) and bad (gets blown around by the wind a bit more). Either one will keep up with highway speeds. The Ninja 500 is pretty much comparable to the GS500F (actually a little bit faster) and also a good choice.
The Katana isn't quite as good a choice; it's not only powerful enough to make learning more difficult, but it's significantly heavier. There are worse choices, but you can do better.
My advice is to sit on the Ninja 250 and 500 and a GS500F and see which one is the most comfortable. Although if you're on a low budget, you might want to just go with the Ninja 250 as it's the most inexpensive - in price, insurance, and gas mileage.|||Any of them, really. The Katana would be pushing things a bit, and though it would be easy and light the 250 might not have what you need on the freeway.
But all are capable bikes that would be more forgiving of newbie mistakes and won't rocket you to the moon before you can blink. Sit on all of them, rock them back %26amp; forth to feel the weight, and choose the one that feels best to you.
Don't forget to budget for full gear, including boots, gloves, overpants, jacket and full-face helmet.|||Either of the 500cc bikes will be more than enough.
You'd soon out grow the 250cc bike. Just take it easy and practice alot in an empty parking lot and never ride beyond your own abilities.|||ninja 500, its got power, looks good and feels right. You could keep it for a while and still keep up with the 600s.|||depends on a number of things you haven't mentioned ... size age type of riding you want to do..etc...
In general I'd buy the bigger bike so you don't outgrow it too quickly..
First and last mistake new riders make is going very very fast.....Remember there is nothing between you and solid objects,and people love to try to kill you(accidentally of course) but what do they really care if they pull out in front of you while chatting on their cell phones ....Consider how many times it happens in a car and then realize how exposed your a** is on a bike ...It takes about 4 years to be any good on a bike and then it's usually your fault if you get hurt ...Remember to at the last second ,make one last leap away from solid objects.....Take the headlong dive toward clean air...Avoid all solid objects at all costs..|||Ninja 500, its the fastest of the group|||ninja 250 if ur just starting will have all the power u need but not enough ur gonna really hurt urself with|||In time and with more experience, you'll eventually outgrow or get bored with your starter bike. So, as long as you feel comfortable on it, go with the cheapest now so you have more $$$ later for your next upgrade. In fact, you may want to consider used instead of new for that starter. The beginner is going to spill it a few times so getting used will make that a much less painful experience, at least for the pocket book.|||Ninja 250, too small. Hard work to keep up with traffic, and revving the nuts off of it to get anywhere isn't conducive to being in control. One of my bikes is a 250 so I have some experience of this.
Katana 600. Nice bike, but not ideal for a beginner. Too heavy and the bar position doesn't make for an easy ride. Turning circle is similar to a canal barge.
I have a Ninja 500. It's a great bike. Slightly more power than the GS500F, but if you're tall check the fit out first.
GS500F. Also a great bike, but the full fairing will cost a lot when/if you drop it, and Suzuki aren't the best finished bikes. In the rust belt, they'll rot like an overripe pear.|||The one with four wheels and a strong body around it.|||i say the Katana 600 but this is b/cuz I'm partial to Suzuki. This bike has enough power to keep you interested in it for a while and why not go with a suzuki. The gsxr 750 and 1000 have won top bike honors for the last 3 years|||Get the bike take is comfortable and you can place both feet flat on the ground. It is better to grow into your bike than grow out of it. Same same skills you need to gain confidence with is the same in a larger cc as in a smaller cc. Most important is how the bike feels to you while sitting still. You dont want it to feel awkward at a still position. Tipping over is not fun. You will do a lot of stopping and how comfortable you are with the bike will determine if your stops will be smooth or tippy.|||Deffinately the suzuki GS500f. It has enough power so you can cruise at highway speeds but not so much power where it will overwhelm you. It also has a full fairing which keeps the wind off you and improves all performance aspects.|||Kawasaki Ninja 250|||A piaggio, they are great for begginers. They are nice and small and dont waste alot of fuel. Sorry i couldn't give you a recommendation for one of the bikes you said.|||What ever your choice, please always be cautious and careful and look after your life.Speed thrills but also kills.|||1.If you are under 150lbs and around 5'8" or less, the Ninja is the best.
2.Over 6' tall, get the Katana 600cc.
3. Don't bother with the 500cc bike, not a good choice.|||A beginer should learn to ride on a low powered bike in order to get used to the road. Only later should you look for speed. Remember, however, that motorbikes are statistically the most dangerous form of transport and you have a very good chance of being killed.
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